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"The Last ah^ De5T Book 

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^! II 1891,'' ) 
73 /u ])-r' 





The 

Brainerd & Armstrong 

Company. 



priee, Seij Qeijts. 



%IHiniHtllllNIIIIIIIHIIIIUIHIHIIIIMIHIIIMIIIWIUUIIIHMHinUIIIMUIHUIHHIimMI< 



UNIMIlllHIIIHIMUIMtMtHUIIHIHIHIMUIHIIimHIMmmnilllMIHIHIHIHmiMHR 










(No... 



gl^e Offices : 

!/ ^ r A ^^^ Broadway, New York. 

Brai^erd y flr/nSt:r09(5 621 Market St., Philadelphia. 

* 120 Kingston St., Boston, Mass. 

(pO/npapy. 5 Hanover St., Baltimore, Md. 



Toronto, Canada. 



A 



i^^ 
^ 



^' 



<^ 



^: <-V 



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1891, by Brainbrd & Armstrong, 
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



X 



INDEX. 













PAGE. 


Preface ........ 7 


Introductory .... 








8 


Knitting Silks and How they Differ 








9 


Victoria Knitting Silk 








lO 


Scale for Socks and Stockings 








II 


Various Stitches — Knitting . 








12 


Things Worth Knowing 








13 


Appropriate and Useful Presents 








14 


Abbreviations and Explanations of Terms 








15 


Child's and Lady's Silk Stockings . 








i6 


Gentleman's Silk Sock 








17 


Lady's Knitted Undervest 










i8 


Infant's Long Silk Shirt 










19 


Infant's Boot and Band 










20 


Baby's Boot . 










21 


Crochet Hood 










22 


Infant's Sacque 










• 23, 24 


Infant's Crocheted Socks 










25 


Infant's Mittens 










. 26, 27 


Lady's Fancy Mitten 










. 28-30 


Lady's Jersey Mitten — Wristers 








31 


Knitted Gloves for Gentlemen 








32 


Knee Warmers — Fancy Pattern 








33 


Crochet Edges 








34.35 


Crochet Garters 










36 


Crochet Wheels 


• 








■ 37-40 


Crochet Beaded Bag 










41 


Long Crochet Purse 










. 42.43 


Crochet Neck-Tie 










44 


Crochet Rings 










45 



Tea-Cosey 

Match Receiver 

Twine Bag 

Spool Bag 

Tobacco Bag . 

Work Bag 

Hair Receiver 

Embroidery and Applique 

Mountmellick Work 

Sofa Pillow 

Doyley 

Table Mat 

Things Useful and Ornamental 

Crocheted Suspenders 

Crocheted Fan Tidy . 

Crocheted Silk Slippers 

Crocheted Lamp Shade 

Crocheted Handkerchief Case 

Crocheted Umbrella Cover . 

Embroidery Stitches (Thirty-five 111 

Proper Shades in Embroidery 

All-over Designs 

Ecclesiastical Designs 



ustrntions) 



46 

47 

48 

48 

49 

50 

51 

51.52 

53-57 

58 

59-61 

62 

63-67 

68 

69 

69,70 

70,71 

71 

72 

73-84 

85 

86,87 




Prefc. 



ace. 



PTVE large editions of our former pamphlet on Rules 
and Designs for Using Knitting and Embroidery Silks 
have been eagerly sought after and studied by thou- 
sands of ladies, whose words of commendation encourage us 
to attempt to do still better in this our sixth effort. To this 
end, new and desirable rules have been added, and only the 
best of the old ones retained. 

In arranging this booK we aim, first, to suggest to knitters 
and embroiderers a number of pra6lical, useful, and ornamental 
articles that may be made with our celebrated Knitting and 
Embroidery Silks; next, to furnish such designs, rules and 
stitches, that any one, though not familiar with knitting or em- 
broidery, may adapt them to the article in hand, as fancy or 
ingenuity may di6late. 



ERRORS AND OMISSIONS. 

We shall esteem it a favor if any lady will write us and 
state the omissions or mistakes of any kind found in our rules 
or other printed matter. 

We shall also be pleased to get new rules, designs and 
new ideas of any kind, either in knitting, crocheting or 
embroidery. 

The Bkainerd & Armstrong Co., 
621 Market Street, Philadelphia. 



INTRODUCTORY. 



'he origin of embroidery, knitting and crocheting is lost in antiq- 
uity, and from the earliest times these have all been the amuse- 
ment of women of leisure, and the occupation of those whose 
skillful fingers must be used to bring in financial returns for 
practical purposes. Never has this work been carried to such an extent, 
nor have there been as many beautiful materials to work with, as at the 
present day. 

. Curiosity might lead one to make many inquiries concerning what 
the ancients used for needles, and what they found for thread ; but of 
one thing we are quite certain, namely, the thread was something vastly 
inferior to the Brainerd & Armstrong silk, so popular with the present 
generation. Personally we propose to withdraw from competition with 
woman on needle-work, but in doing so we make one modest little 
request : namely, that we be allowed to furnish the silk. 

To this end we have built at New London, Conn., what is said to be 
the best arranged, most complete silk-thread fa^lory in this country ; 
and right here we give a cordial invitation to all passing through New 
London to visit our faflory (only three squares from the depot), and see 
all the latest improved machinery for making the " Best in the World " 
spool silk. Whether a patron of our silk or not, you will receive a gen- 
uine and hearty welcome, and be shown all the processes through 
which the silk passes. If you are a patron (we hope so), you may be 
able to find somewhere in that beautiful facflory a brick which your 
patronage has helped us to pay for ; and this, we hope, may give to it an 
added charm to your eyes. 

The Brainerd & Armstrong Company. 



Knitting Silks and How they Diflfen 



The Most Desirable Brands to Purchase 

jj^^EARLY all silk manufaflurers now make more or leso of silk 

I l/L branded " Knitting Silk ;" and while that made by each may in 

some respecfls differ, it naturally follows that those manufacflurers 

who devote special thought, study and labor to the subjeQ, 

succeed the best. 

Knitting silks differ in three important respecfls : 

1. In the raw material used. 

2. In the slackness or tightness of the twist. 

3. In tha dyes used and process of dyeing. 

Courtesy to others, and a due regard for modesty, prevents us from 
criticising other goods. No one can help seeing, however, that not 
only a choice may be exercised, but it calls for study, care and experi- 
ence to seledl; the best stock, the best twist, and the best process of dye- 
ing to make "The Best Knitting Silk" 

Without going into too many tiresome details concerning raw 
material, twist and dyes, we will state that, after four years of careful 
observation and experience, we have adopted two brands representing 
tvo grades of silk. 

The one known as the Brain- 
erd & Armstrong Brand is pre- 
pared by a combing process which 
produces a " soft finish," uniform 
size, more pliable, easier to knit, 
softer to the feet, and in general 
appearance more like silk yarn. 

The lustre is not so brilliant in 
the ball, nor during the process of 
knitting, but it seems to improve 
with every successive washing, and 
by, acflual test has been found to 
outwear any other grade of good-, 

This silk requires special ma- - ^„„ .. 

,. r . '"' ""^ SOFT FINISH SILK." 

chmery of an expensive kind only made in Europe, and some manu- 
fadurers in this country who have not the machinery and cannot make 
the goods, call it "spun silk" and attempt to decry its merits; but in 
Europe this grade of silk has virtu.^lly superseded all others for knitting 
purposes, and the ladies in our country have learned its superiority while 
abroad, and will insist on having it when they purchase. 
Yov stockings nothing can excel the above hnind. 




BraINERD dk ARMSTRONG'S 



The Buainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




"Victoria Knitting Silk" 

is the name of our new brand. It 
is often remarked of work done 
with this silk that " it is fit for a 
queen," so we deemed the name 
"Victoria" as not inappropriate 
for these goods. They are noted 
for great histre and brilliancy, be- 
ing made from the choicest long 
fibre of reeled cocoons. 

This brand is particularly 
adapted to crocheting, fancy work, 
knitting purposes, baby caps, sacks, 
laces, fringes for' macreme work 

and for embroidery. Owing to its '" high lustre" silk. 

brilliancy some prefer it for stockings. We find an increasing demand 
for this brand, which may perhaps be attributed to the facfl, that ladies 
who once try it for embroidery, or for knitting little fancy articles of 
dress, are greatly pleased with the lustrous effc6l. 

The Dyeing of all our Knitting Silks is made a very import- 
ant matter — a matter of careful study, to get dyes pure and harmless, 
colors th at -zf/// stand washing, and tints both rich and delicate. Every- 
thing that goes out under either one of our brands, we will guarantee to 
be the best that can be made in all these respecfls. 

As these pages go to press, word comes to us from our fadlory at 
New London, Conn., that our prolonged study and experiment has 
resulted in discovering a new process of dyeing, which will hereafter give 
us extraordinarily fast colors in all our knitting silk shades. Heretofore, 
we could only obtain moderately fast colors in a few shades that had to 
be washed carefully in lukewarm water. Now we can produce shades 
that will stand hot water and soap with no perceptible fading or washing 
out. It bids fair to prove one of the greatest discoveries in dyeing the 
world has ever made. 

Figures and letters worked on the whitest linen may be washed 
with soap and water without injuring the color of the silk. 

Our new goods dyed with this new process, will have a special label 
on them, guaranteeing the dye ; and the additional cost of these goods 
will only be a few cents on each ball. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



It 



Scale for Socks and Stockings. 

HE following table will be found of service to knitters: 

The narrowings in the leg have uniformly five plain rounds 
between, and those for the toes are as follows : Two decreasing 
with 3 rounds between, 2 with 2 rounds, 2 with i round, and 
then every round till the toe is cast off. 

SOCKS. 



Size. 


Stitches 
cast on. 


Rounds 
to heel. 


Stitches 
for heel. 


Rows 
of heel. 


Rounds of foot 
before narrowing. 


ISt 

2d 
3d 


34-34-35 
38-38-39 
42-42-43 


1 30 
130 
142 


49 

59 
65 


38 
40 
45 


90 
los 
126 



STOCKINGS. 



Sire. 


Stitches 
cast on. 


Rounds Narrow 
to nar. in leg. 


Rounds 
in ankle. 


Stitches 
for heel. 


Rows 
in heel. 


Rounds in 
foot to toe. 


ISt 
2d 

3d 
4th 


33-33-33 
36-36-37 
44-44-45 
58-58-59 


135 — 10 

148 — 12 
156 — 13 
200 14 


44 
46 
50 

54 


41 
43 
55 
75 


28 

30 
40 
42 


60 

72 
88 
120 



SCALE OF Measurement in Inches. 





W) 






.c 
















60- u 










c - y 










C-OJ5 






Socks and Stockings. 


bi 


u "'3 


J2 




"•2 




■0 — 

O.S 


.t'r; bo 




c^o 




H 


W 


,-S 


W 


Sock for child of four, . . . . 




6K 
8 


2 


6 

6% 

8 

9M 


















8 


2}i 


10 






8 


4 
3 


10 

10% 


Man's sock, 2d size, 




Man's sock, 3d size 




8% 


3 


"H 


Stocking for child of 5 years, . . 


sii 


14 


iK 


6K 


Stocking for child of 7 years, . . 


10 


i6 


2 


8 


Stocking for child of 9 years, . . 


II 


'7 , 


2 


^V* 


Stocking for child of 11 years, . 


12 


21^ 


2 


9 , 


Woman's stocking, 1st size, . . 


"5i 


"V* 


'H 


9^ 


Woman's stocking, 2d size, . . . 


13 


23 


2K 


10 


Man's stocking, 


I2j^ 


32 


3% 


lUX 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Various Stitches— Knitting. 

Purling or seaming is in reality knitting backwards, as the stitch is taken up in a 
convrary direction from plain knitting. Before beginning to purl, the thread must be brought 
in front of the needle, and if a plain stitch follows, the thread is passed back after the purl 
stitch is made. 

Increasing, or making a stitch, is done by throwing the thread once round the 

needle, and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch. 

Decreasing is done in two ways : Firstly, taking up two stitches and knitting them 
together as one ; secondly, by taking up a stitch without knitting it, called slipping, then by 
knitting the following stitch in the usual way, and then slipping the first (unknitted) over the 
second (knitted). When it is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed thus: Slip 
ene, knit two stitches together, then blip the unknitted stitch over the two knitted together. 

Casting off stitches, the operation by which a piece of knitting is finished, is done by 
knitting two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slipping the first, knitted over the second. 
This is continued to the end of the row. 'n finishing oflF a piece of work, the casting off must 
be done very loosely, otherwise it will be much tighter than the other rows of knitting. 

Jtibhed- stitch is made by knitting and purling alternate groups of stitches. There may 
be one stitch or more in each group. 

Chain-stitch was much used for the knitted quilts, so much affected by knitters and 
housekeepers of an earlier period. For the cottvre-pieds, or sofa blankets, now in vogue, it 
will be found most effective, especially if each successive row be knitted in carefully harmonized 
or contrasted colors. It requires three needles. 

The mode of knitting is as follows : Set on thirteen stitches, knit two plain rows, * knit 
three stitches, purl seven, knit the last three. Knit the next row plain. Repeat from * until 
sixteen rows have been knitted from * inclusive. Now knit three stitches plain, take off the 
next four upon the third needle; knit the next three from behind the third needle, so as 
to entirely miss it, drawing the wool very tight, so as to connect the two needles closely 
together. Then knit the four stitches of the third needle, completing the twist. Knit the 
remaining three and begin to form a fresh pattern by knitting three stitches, purling seven, 
knitting three, as before, for sixteen rows. Then twist again, as above. 

Open hem is one of the old stitches, and is suitable for fine needles and silk. 

Set on any number of stitches that is divisible by four. Slip the first stitch of each row, 
knit the second, put the silk over the needle to make a stitch, knit two together, repeat from* 
to the end of the row. All the rows are knitted exactly the same as this one, but the whole 
pattern depends on the number of stitches being divisible by four. The pattern is very simple 
and very pretty, forming a kind of herring-bone stitch in alternate rows and solid knitting. 

Douhle hnitting is equally simple, and is very useful for socks, shawls, and the cuflTs 
of warm winter mittens. The stitches for double knitting must be even in number. Knit a 
stitch, T. T. O. once, slip a stitch off without knitting it, knit a stitch, T. T. O. once, and so 
on through the whole of the row. The reason for having an even number of stitches is that the 
stitch that is knitted in one row must be slipped in the next. 

Honey comh-stitch, so called because it forms a series of hexagons, is done as follows : 
Knit the first stitch, put the silk over the needle to make a loop, knit two stitches together. 
Continue making a loop and knitting two stitches together till the row is completed. Then 
knit a row of plain knitting, another row of honeycomb-stitch, and then one of plain knitting. 
Mittens knitted with this stitch in fine purse silk look very well. 

French- stitch makes a pretty kind of fancy rib ; it also is very simple. Cast on th« 
stitches in fours, leaving two over. These two (one at each side of the row) form a strong 
edge, resembling chain-stitch in crochet. Purl the first stitch, put the thread bark, * knit two 
stitches together, make a stitch by putting the thread over the needle, knit a stitch, T. T. O. 
once, purl a stitch, repeat from *, At the end of each row, put the thread back and knit the 
last stitch, 

Crotv'a-foot-stitch is very efTective, forming a series of thick stitches alternately with 
a series of open work. Set up any number of stitches divisible by three, with one over. After 
having knitted one plain row, begin the pattern as follows : Knit the first stitch, * make a 
Stitch, slip a stitch, knit two plain stitches, pass the slipped stitch over the two plain ones, 
rtpeat from *. Furl the whole of the next row. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 13 



Things Worth Knowing. 




How TO Wash Silk Knit Articles. 

JSSOLVE a moderate amount of white Castile soap in lukewarm 
water. Squeeze and press the water through the articles. Rub 
as little as possible the deepest stains. Rinse thoroughly in 
clear, cold water. Extra(fl the water by rolling and twisting in 
a coarse, heavy towel. Stretch into good form, and dry willunit ex- 
posure to the sun. To add lustre, take a soft, dry piece of flannel, and 
rub in one dire(flion when the article is nearly dry. Never use a hot iron 
unless the article is folded inside of another thick cloth. A little ox-gall 
is sometimes used to prevent colors running. Our new discoveries in 
dyeing enable us to dye colors that may be thoroughly washed without 
any bad results, even if these precautions are not followed. All our 
goods have a guarantee wash label wrapper around every spool. 
*-x-*** ** ** * 

Never join the ends ,p thread in knitting by tying a knot. 
Lap the ends three inches or more together, and knit the distance with a 
double thread, leaving both ends on the wrong side. 
********** 

HOW TO STRETCH FINISHED EMBROIDERY. 

When the work is finished it will be found that it has become much 
drawn and puckered. To remedy this a clean cloth must be wetted in 
clear cold water, wring it out tightly, and place it on a board or table ; 
then put the work upon it, face upwards. With drawing or other pins 
pin out the work, and strain it as much as possible ; leave it for twelve 
hours in dry weather, and longer in damp weather. If it has been 
properly stretched, it will be perfectly smooth when taken off the board. 
If it has not been tightly strained, repeat the process, again wetting the 
cloth. 

Another way is to lay the embroidery face downwards upon a piece 
of flannel, dampen the back, or lay upon it a damp cloth, and press it 
with a hot iron. Embroidered work must on no account be boiled or 
allowed to lie in a wet condition after having been washed, nor must com- 
mon soaps or washing powders be used. 



14 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Appropriate and Useful Presents. 

For Gentlemen. — Neckties, suspenders, gloves, wristers, purses, 
stockings, smoking cap, tobacco-bag, eye-glass cleaner, twine-bag. 

For LADiES.^Spool-bag, work-bag, purses, mittens, hair-receiver, 
tea-cosey, lamp-shade, table mats, doylies. 

For Children. — Mittens, caps, hoods, sacques, shirts, petticoats, 
stomach-bands, socks. 

All the knitted and crocheted articles mentioned above are made 
entirely of silk, and the remaining ones call for embroidery silk in way 
of decoration. Rules and descriptions will be found on the following 
pages. 



Encouragement to Knitters. 

^^^HE art of knitting is an accomplishment any lady may be proud 
((^^ of, and the present rage for silk underwear has increased the 
number of knitters. The beautiful silks we now have make 
the work very fascinating, and the price of these silks brings 
them within the reach of all. We feel satisfied that our rules for stock- 
ings, undervests, etc., can be used by beginners as well as by old knitters, 
and that underwear knit of silk is pleasant to wear and very durable. We 
propose to stimulate the knitting interest of to-day in two different ways : 
1st. By making " the Best Knitting Silk in the World." 
2d. By issuing from time to time new rules and books on knitting. 



A Suggestion. 

Would it not be a pleasant occupation for many of our girls to fashion 
something, the best of its kind, in the style of the days they live in, so 
well and so prettily, that it would be- worth keeping as a reminder of 
these days when they are past, and we ourselves are among the old 
fashioned things ; and would also be worth sending down the time as 
our grandmothers' things have come to us ? 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 15 

ABBREVIATIONS AND EXPLANATIONS OFTERMS TO BE FOUND 
IN RULES FOR KNITTING AND CROCHETING. 

P. — Means to purl or seam. 

N. — Narrow by knitting two stitches together. 

K. — Knit plain. 

S. — Slip or take off one stitch without knitting. 

S. and B. — Slip and bind, slip one stitch, knit the next, and pass the 
slipped stitch over the stitch knitted. 

T. T. O. — Throw thread over needle. 

Cast off. — Same as bind off — knit two stitches, pass first over second 
and repeat. 

C. S. — Chain stitch (crochet). Make a loop or slip knot and pass 
the hook through it, throw the thread over the hook, and draw it through 
the loop already made. 

S. S. — Slip stitch. Draw loop through one or more stitches on the 
crochet needle. 

S. C. — Single crochet. Put the hook through the foundation chain, 
or a stitch in the preceding row, throw thread over the hook, draw through 
tlie loop, thread over the needle again, and draw through the two loops 
on the hook. 

D. C. — Double crochet. Throw thread over die hook and insert the 
litter into a loop, thread over, and draw through the loop. You will have 
liiree loops on the hook, thread over the hook, draw through two loops, 
thread over and draw through two more. 

T. C. — Treble crochet. This is exactly the same as d. c, but is 
thrown Hvice over the needle instead oi once, and the stitch is completed 
by drawing the thread three times through two loops. 

Round. — To complete the circuit once around. 

Repeat. — Do the same thing over again, whether one or a series of 
stitches. 

Row. — Once across. 

* Marks a point in the work which is referred to again as in a re- 
peat. 

Crocheting seems to have reached a degree of perfection, and still 
there are some who do not understand it ; these are the ones we hope to 
reach and profit by the rules and suggestions in this book. 

Chain stitch is the foundation of all crochet work and should be done 
rather loosely, as working on it tightens it, and is apt to give the work a 
puckered appearance. 



i6 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

CHILD'S SILK Stocking-Ribbed Work. 

Stocking. — No. i8 needles. Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk 
No. 300. Cast on 80 stitches. Ribbing — knit 2, and purl 2 for 60 rounds 
(3 inches). 

Leg— 80 stitches, knit i, and purl i for 60 rounds (3 inches). Heel — 
40 stitches. Do not continue the ribbing. Knit in rows, plain and purl, 
slipping first stitch of each row. Knit 40 rows. Turn the heel. 

Instep — Take up 32 stitches on each side of the heel. Place the 40 
instep-stitches on one needle, knit the two heel needles plain, and rib 
the instep for one round. Decrease thus: ist heel needle — knit plain 
till 4 stitches are left, knit 2 together, knit 2, rib instep needle. 2d heel 
needle — knit i, slip i, knit i, and throw the slipped stitch over; knit 
the rest plain. Knit r round, without decreasing, after each decreasing 
round. Decrease till there are 80 stitches on the 3 needles. Foot 80 
stitches. Rib the upper needle, and knit the two under needles plain 
for 60 rounds, measuring from the turn of the heel. 

Toe — 80 stitches, begin with the upper needle, and knit the whole 
toe plain. Decrease thus: Knit 2, slip i, knit i, throw the slipped 
stitches over, knit plain till 4 stitches are left, then slip i, knit i, throw 
the slipped stitch over, knit 2. First under needle, knit 2, slip i, knit i, 
throw the slipped stitch ovf , knit the rest plain. Second under needle. 
Knit plain till 4 stitches are left, then slip i, knit i, throw the slipped 
stitch over, knit 2. Knit 4 plain rounds, after each decreasing round. 
After the 8th decreasing round, place the 24 under stitches on one needle, 
and cast off from both needles at once on the right side. Darn the end 
of the yarn into the knitting. 



LADY'S Ribbed Silk Stocking. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk No. 300. Materials, 4>^ ounces 
of silk for one pair. 

CaA on 121 stitches, on No. 16 or 17 needles. Rib — Knit 3, purl i — 
for about 14 inches in length, purling 2 in the centre of the back needle 
where the seam is. Narrowings — 121 stitches — 12 times, decreasing i on 
each side of the seam stitch as in plain knitting, with seven rounds of 
plain ribbing between the narrowings. Ankle — 97 stitches— rib about 
2)4 inches. Heel — 49 stitches — rib 36 rows, knitting 2 together in the 
middle of the last row. Pick up 20 stitches on each side of the heel. 
Foot — 96 stitches — knit about 8 inches long, including heel. Toe — 96 
stitches — narrow every third row 13 times. Cast off with 22 stitches on 
each needle. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 17 

GENTLEMAN'S RIBBED SiLK SOCK. 

Materials, Brainerd& Armstrong's knitting silk No. 300, ^}4 ounce?, 
No. 16 or 17 needles. 

Cast on 100 stitches, 32 on two needles and 36 on the third, knit 2, 
purl 2 for 12 inches in length, or as long as you want the leg. Prepare 
for heel by ribbing to end of back needle, and from next needle rib 
on to back needle 8 stitches ; rib the remaining 24 stitches from first 
needle to another needle, rib second needle to within 8 stitches of the 
end ; these 8 you must pass to the heel or back needle without knitting. 
You ought to have 52 stitches on heel and 24 on each side needle. The 
two front needles are not used again until the heel is completed. The 
heel is made by ribbing alternate rows for 42 rows. Each row is com- 
menced by knitting 2, do not knit the first stitch, slip it onto the needle. 
In 43d row, which commences round of heel, knit plain ; you no longer 
rib under the foot. Knit 34 stitches, knit two together, * turn your 
needle, seam 17 stitches, seam 2 together, again turn your needle, knit 
17 stitches, knit 2 together; repeat from * until you have only 18 stitches 
on your needle ; this finishes heel. With this needle, on which you have 
the 18 stitches, take up, and as you take up, knit 24 stitches from side of 
your heel ; knit 4 stitches off front needle on the same, rib all the stitches 
from the two front needles excepting the 4 last on another needle. (Ob- 
serve the front needle is ribbed throughout until you commence narrow- 
ing for toe.) These 4 stitches must be knitted on a third needle, with 
which take up, and, as you take up, knit 24 stitches from side of heel ; 
also knit 9 stitches from other side needle to this. You will have 37 on 
each side needle, and 40 on front needle. The next needle, which is 
your first side needle, knit plain, rib front needle, knit second side needle 
plain. First side needle — * knit plain until within 6 stitches of the end, 
then knit 2 together, knit 4. Front needle rib. 

Second side needle. — Knit 4, slip i, knit I, pull the slipped stitch 
over the knitted one ; knit plain to end of needle. Knit 2 rounds of the 
sock plain (always ribbing front needle). Repeat from * until the foot is 
sufficiently reduced, which will be when you have 98 stitches in all on 
your needles. 

Knit the foot about g}4 inches long, including the heel ; but this 
depends on the length of foot you require. 

To reduce for toe, the front needle is now plain knitting not ribbed. 

Put as many stitches on your front needle as you have on the other 
2 together. You have now 40 on front needle, and 29 on each side ; so 
you must take 5 stitches from one side needle, and 4 from the other, and 
place them on front needle, which gives you 49 on front, 24 on one side 
needle, and 25 on the other. Commence the toe at front needle by knit 
I, slip I, knit I, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted i, knit plain to 
within 3 of end, when knit 2 together, knit I. 

First back needle. — Knit i, slip i, knit i, pull the slipped stitch over 
the knitted i ; knit plain to end of needle. Second back needle. — Knit 
plain to within 3 of the end, knit 2 together, knit i. This reducing is 
repeated every 3d round, the intervening rounds being knitted plain until 
you have about 44 stitches in all left on your needles ; knit the front and 
back stitches together, and as you knit them cast off. 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



LADIES' KNITTED UNDER vest-High Neck and Long Sleeves. 

Materials, Brainerd & Armstrong's silk in hanks, 5 ounces, 2 finest 
rubber needles. 

Back — Commence at bottom of back by casting on 80 stitches, and 
on these stitches do 30 rows of plain knitting. Then next row do * 3 
plain, seam 3 ; * repeat from * to *, or what comes between stars, over 
and over until you can count 100 rows of ribbing. Now seam 3 rows all 
across on wrong side. Then commence block knitting. * Do 5 plain 
stitches, seam 5 ; * repeat from * to * all across the row, and do 4 more 
rows the same. Then do * 5 seam, 5 plain ; * repeat from * to * all 
across, and do 4 more rows the same. This finishes 2 rows of blocks. 
Do 6 more rows of blocks, making 8 rows of blocks of 5 rows each. Do 
22 rows now of plain knitting. For one shoulder 5 plain, seam 5, 5 plain, 
seam 5, 5 plain, and take these stitches off on a cord for future use, bind 
off loosely 30 stitches, then commence other shoulder, 5 plain, 5 seam, 
5 plain, 5 seam, 5 plain. On this row do 4 more rows the same, which 
finishes i block. Do 3 more rows of blocks on this block. On last row 
of last block, when you get to end of row, cast on 30 stitches. Now on 
the stitches on the cord, do 4 rows of blocks (that is finish block begun, 
and do 3 more) to correspond with other shoulder. Now 8 rows of blocks 
all across shirt to match those on back; then do 100 rows of ribbing, 3 
plain, seam 3 alternately, then 30 rows plain knitting, bind off loosely. 
Sew up the sides to middle of blocks on body, leaving place for sleeves. 

Sleeve — Commence at arm size. Cast on 60 stitches, knit 10 plain 
rows, now narrow once on each end of needle every other row until you 
have only 45 stitches ; on this row do 34 plain rows without narrowing. 
Now narrow every row on last end till you have 39 stitches, then * 
3 plain, seam 3 * for 24 rows. Bind off loosely ; sew up sleeves and 
sew into armholes. Finish neck with 2 rows of crocheted holes finished 
with shell edge. Then run in ribbon and tie in a bow on front. If 
wished, a crocheted finish may be added to bottom of shirt. 

This rule can be used for a vest without sleeves or with short sleeves, 
and the neck can be arranged either low or high. It is a beautiful pattern. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 19 

INFANT'S Long Silk Shirt. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's silk in hanks, 2 ounces. 

Two smallest size bone and 4 coarsest size steel knitting needles. 

On the bone needles cast on 84 stitches. 

1st row. I knit plain, always slipping ist stitch. 2d row, Purl. 3d 
row. Plain. 4th row. Slip i stitch, make i, * knit 4 plain, slip i, knit 2 
together in i stitch bind ("binding" is casting the slipped stitch over 
the last knitted one). Knit 4, make i, knit i make i *. Repeat from * 
to end of row. The last cluster of 4 will come out one short. 5th row. 
Purl. 6th row. Like 4th row. 7th row. Purl. 8th row. Like 4th row. 
9th row. Plain. 

These nine rows complete one cluster. Begin again at first row and 
make in all 5 clusters or 45 rows. 

46th row. Plain knitting. * 47th row. Knit 7 plain and 3 purl across 
the row. The last 4 stitches will be plain. 48th row. First 4 stitches 
purl, then complete the row with 3 plain and 7 purl, matching the stitches 
in the preceding row. 49th row. Like 47th row. 50th row. Plain knit- 
ting. 51st row. Knit 2 plain, then 3 purl and 7 plain alternately to end 
of row. 52d row. The stitches which in the 51st row were knitted plain, 
in the 52d row must be purled, and those that were purled in the 51st 
row, in the 52d row must be knitted plain. 53d row. Like 51st. 54th row. 
Plain knitting. 

Repeat the last 8 rows till the body of the shirt thus knitted in "bas- 
ket " pattern is as long as the scallops below. Then take off the stitches 
on a steel knitting needle. 

This completes one-half the body of the shirt. Knit the other half 
to match. 

For the sleeves cast on 48 stitches. Knit two clusters of scallops like 
those around the bottom of the shirt, and 7 clusters of the basket pattern. 

Cast off 15 stitches at each end of the 48 stitches, and take the other 
18 stitches on a steel needle. 

Sew the sleeve up, keeping it well stretched. 

The 15 cast-off stitches are to be sewed to each side of the body of 
the shirt, and the rest of the edges of the body of the shirt seamed to- 
gether to the bottom of the shirt. 

Join on the silk at the neck, and knit 5 rows, narrowing every 6th 
stitch till 120 stitches remain. 

Then knit i row of eyelets in this manner: i plain, make i, narrow, 
i plain, make i, narrow, etc. 

Finish with 2 plainly knitted rows and cast off the stitches loosely. 

A crocheted scallop finishes the neck of the shirt. 



20 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

INFANT'S BOOT. 

Materials, 2 spools of Brainerd & Armstrong's silk No. 300. Two 
steel needles No. 17. 

Cast on 85 stitches with colored silk. 

1st row. Plain. 2d row. Purl. 3d row. Plain. 4th row. Use white 
silk; slip i, knit i, (a) throw thread over, knit 3, slip i, knit 2 together, 
bind, slip stitch over, knit 3, throw thread over, knit 3 ; (a) repeat from 
(a) to (a) until there are but 2 stitches on the needle, then throw thread 
over and knit 2. 

5th row. Purl. 

Repeat 4th and 5th rows until you have 22 eyelets, then bind off 32 
stitches on the right-hand side of the boot, which will leave 10 on right 
of middle stitch ; then knit 2 together, throw thread over, knit 3, throw 
thread over, knit 3, slip i, knit 2 together, bind slip stitch over, knit 3, 
throw thread over, knit 3, throw thread over, knit 2 together, knit i ; this 
will leave 21 stitches, which are to be used in forming the instep; now 
bind off the stitches remaining on the left-hand needle, then purl the 21 
stitches, beginning on wrong side of sock. 

Next row — Slip ist stitch, knit 2 together, throw thread over, knit 3, 
throw thread over, knit 3, slip i, knit 2 together, bind over, knit 3, throw 
thread over, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit i. 

Repeat these 2 rows until there are 9 eyelets in instep, making 31 
eyelets from top of boot; then bind it off on right side. 

For foot, which may be knit basket or any other fancy stitch, use the 
colored silk ; to form the toe set on 13 stitches, and join to instep by knit- 
ting the last of the 13 stitches with the first of the instep stitches so as to 
form but i stitch ; widen every alternate row at the toe point, until there 
are 22 stitches on the needle, which must be in the middle of the instep ; 
then narrow every alternate row until you have 13 stitches on the needle, 
now take up side stitches until there are 52 on the needle, including the 
13 toe stitches; then narrow down to 42 stitches by narrowing every row 
at the toe end, and every alternate row at the heel end, and that in going 
off the needle. 

Take up 52 stitches on the right-hand side and knit as before. 

Sew straight parts together, fitting toe point in the angle thus formed. 

To knit roll take up the stitches, where the white and colored silks 
join, on 3 needles and use a fourth needle for knitting, purl 4 rows, then 
bind off. 



INFANT'S BAND. 

• Cast on 60 stitches. Use 4 needles, and knit around as in a stocking. 
Knit 3 plain, 2 purl, until about 8 inches deep, then cast off all but 
12 stitches. Knit back and forth on these, narrowing at the beginning, 
till but I stitch is lefu This makes a tab to pin the band down. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



21 



Baby's Boot. 




eAST on 54 stitches, knit i row plain, purl i row, knit 22 rows, 
increasing on the 3d stitch of every row. There should now be 
75 stitches on the needle. Purl I row, knit 22 rows, decreasing 
by knitting 2d and 3d stitches together in every row. There 
should now be 54 stitches. 
Purl I row, increasing on 3d stitch ; cast on 20 stitches for heel. 
There should now be 76 stitches. Knit 18 rows, purl i row and knit 10 
rows, increasing at the toe end only. There will now be 90 stitches. 
Knit 50 stitches, leaving 40 stitches on another needle, and knit back- 
ward and forward for front of foot as follows : 

1st row — Knit 50; 2d row, purl 50; 3d row, knit i, 2 together 24 
times; 4th row, knit i, make i, same to end. These 4 rows form the 
pattern, and must be repeated 8 times more. 

Make 40 stitches for side of foot. Knit 10 rows, purl i row, knit 18 
rows, decreasing at the toe end only, cast off. 

For Leg. — Take up the 40 stitches on the side, knitting also 22 for 
front, then knit the 40 left on spare needle, knit i row, purl i row, i row 
of holes by putting silk twice around the needle and knitting 2 together, 
purl I row, then 10 patterns same as front of foot. 42d row — knit 3, purl 
3, knit 3, purl 3 to end of row ; 43d and 44th like 42d ; 45th row, purl 3, 
icnit 3, purl 3, knit 3 to end ; 46th and 47th like 45th ; 48th, 49th and 
50th like 42d ; 51st row, plain. Repeat as 51st, 5 times more. Cast off 
on wrong side. Crochet an edge on the top. 



22 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




Crochet Hood. 



PATTERN for a child's hood is always in demand. The deside- 
ratum is a hood which combines beauty and durability. We 
^11 present a design which we believe will meet the requirements. 

Our cut gives the hood alone, but its beauty will be greatly 
enhanced by the addition of ribbon, run through the open work, and 
loops and bows where desired. One important point to remember is, 
that Brainerd & Armstrong's silk will wash, so that if the ribbon be 
removed, the hood may be done up equal to new. 

B. & A. knitting silk, No. 300. 

Make a chain of 10 stitches, and join the ends. Over the chain s. c. 
25 times. 

2d row. — S. c. in every stitch of the ist row. 

3d row. — Increase in every 2d stitch ; continue in this way until you 
have 8 rows, then 2 plain rows without increasing. 

To form the shells, d. c. 6 times in every 5th stitch. 

2d row. — Work 10 d. c. stitches in the centre of every shell, and i 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 23 



short stitch over the five skipped stitches ; this forms a plain scallop. 
Crochet a row of chain stitches over the scallops by making 4 chain 
stitches and i short stitch in the centre of each scallop. Crochet i plain 
row; this finishes the crown of the hood. On this row crochet 2 more 
plain rows, leaving 25 stitches open to form the neck of the hood. On 
these 3 plain rows crochet 2 rows of shells as before, then 3 plain rows 
and 2 more rows of shells. 

Again crochet i row of chain stitches and i plain row of s. c. all 
round the hood, which finishes it to the lace, and gives it an excellent 
shape. The lace is crocheted all round the hood. The 1st and 2d rows 
are plain shell stitches. 3d row ; a small scallop formed of chain stitches 
—a chain of 4 stitches— skip i stitch, draw through the 2d without the 
thread over the needle. 4th row ; a chain of 4 stitches crocheted in the 
centre of each scallop with a short stitch ; this finishes the lace. 



INFANT'S SACQUE. 

(See Rule on page 24.) 




24 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

Infant's Sacque. 

W|||SE Brainerd & Armstrong's Victoria knitting silk; quantity re- 
(((J| quired, 2 ounces. 3 yards of ribbon. 

This is crocheted in the fancy stitch called star or crazy stitch. 
Make a chain of 90 stitches, put the needle through the last chain 
and then through the next, still retaining the loops on the needle until 
there are six, then draw the thread through all of these, then through 
that loop once; this makes the first star. To make the second, keep the 
loop that is on the needle, then draw a second one through the hole 
formed by knitting off the 6 stitches together, and take up two more 
loops from the back, and 2 more from the next 2 chains — then draw the 
thread through all these, and then make another star same as before. 

In the first row there should be 45 stars. Break off the thread at the 
end of each row and begin again. 

Second row— make 10 stars and widen i, make i, widen i, make 1 1 
stars and widen i — make i, widen i, make- 11 stars — widen i, make [, 
widen i, make ten stars. This completes the row. Always keep 10 
stars on each front, widen every time across on the shoulders, having i 
plain star between the widenings the first time, 3 plain the next time, 
and 5 the next and so on until 14 rov/s have been made. In the middle 
of the back it is only widened every other row — always keeping i plain 
star in the middle of the back and widen each side of it. On the fifteenth 
row, you make 10 stars and pass by all the uncrossed stars to the back; 
across the back passing by all the widenings on the other shoulder to 
the front 10 stars. Make 12 rows of stars ; these are open-work border 
of I d, c. in each star with i ch.iin between each d. c. Then 2 rows 
more of stars. Then make the open-work border down the fronts and 
across the bottom; then make a row of shells on top of this, containing 
8 d. c. for each shell, and fasten down by a short single crochet between 
the shells ; then, for the second row around *, take up i loop from the top 
of the first shell and then one from each of the other three d. c. of the 
shell, I from each of the first 4 of the next shell, work these 8 loops off 
together, then 3 chain and fasten by a slip- stitch into the last stitch that 
the last loop was taken from, then 3 chain and repeat from * all round 
the sacque excepting the neck. This border is called 7c//'^(;7 stitches ; then 
make a picot border around in this way *, i d. c. — in the hole formed by 
working the 6 loops off together these 3 chains fastened in the 2 d c. 
make 5 more d. c, and chain it in the same hole and fasten down * ; 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 25 

repeat all around. Round the necks make an open work over for the 
ribbon, with a row of shells on each side. One turning up and one down. 
For the sleeves make 10 rows of stars round the arm hole, then an open 
second row and finish with a border like the bottom. Run ribbons in all 
the open work. Tie those that are run through the sleeves in a little 
bow. We hope these directions will be found sufficiently explicit. We 
think as the work goes on they will be found plain. 



INFANT'S Crocheted Silk Socks. 

Materials, Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk 1% ounces, a small 
crochet needle. The pattern will hardly be called a handsome one, but 
it is easily made and understood. 

Make a chain long enough to go round baby's leg, 35 stitches, more 
or less. Join together to form a round, and work in d. c, putting the hook 
through the underhalf of each stitch for about 15 rounds ; this forms the 
leg. For the top part of the foot, raise 13 stitches, crochet tricotee — that 
is, put in the hook as before, pull the silk through and leave the loop on 
the hook. Work these 13 stitches forward and backward, in crochet tri- 
cotee for 10 rows, remembering that forward and backward make one 
row. On the next row narrow by drawing the silk through the first 3 
vertical stitches on the right-hand side of the piece, and again through 
the 3 stitches immediately before the last loop. Repeat these narrowings 
on the next row. There are now 5 stitches. Make a d. c. in each. The 
top part of the foot is finished. 

Next, work down the left side of this piece in d. c, then around the 
stitches at the bottom of the leg, and afterward along the right of the 
foot and around the toe. In doing this the only part to be careful about 
is the left side of the foot. The hook here should be put under the last 
of the tricotee stitches down the side and through the stitch below. Work 
round and round the bottom of foot and leg in d, c. for 6 or 7 rounds. 
Then turn the work inside out, place the two sides carefully together, put 
the hook through 7 stitches at the toe end and draw the silk through the 
whole. Crochet in d. c. the bottom edges of the foot together till only 7 
stitches are left, put the hook through all of these, draw them together to 
match the toe end, fasten off, turn it inside out again, and the foot is 
finished. 

Next fasten the silk on the top of the leg ; make 3 chains, work 2 
treble into the same hole, miss 2 stitches, and fasten with a d. c. into the 
3d stitch. Make 2 chain, work 2 trebles into the same hole as the d. c. ; 
miss 2 stitches and work a d. c. on the 3d. Repeat this scallop all around 
the top of the leg. 

The work is now complete with the exception of a little cord and 
tassels, or a narrow ribbon around the ankle. 



26 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



fNFAMT'S MITTENS. 

Materials, Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk No. 300, i oz., 2 
needles, No. 17 or 18, i yard ribbon half inch wide. 

Cast on 45 stitches. 

xst row. Knit plain to last 2 stitches. Then tto. once, and k. 2 end- 
stitches plain. 

2d row. K. 2 plain, k. loop as i stitch, k. rest plain. 

Repeat each row 1 1 times, making 24 rows in all. The open-work 
now contains 12 holes. There will be 57 stitches on needle. 

So far, the work has widened at the holes. In the next 6 rows it 
remains straight at the holes. 

1st row. Knit plain to last 4 stitches. K. 2 together, tto., k. 2 plain. 

2d row. K. 2, k. I loop, rest plain. Repeat twice or until 3 more 
holes have been made. 

Narrow along the next 12 holes as follows : 

1st row. Knit plain, until 4 stitches from end. K. 2 together, tto., 
k. 2 plain. 

2d row. K. 2, k. i loop, k. 2 together, k. plain to end. 

Repeat 11 times, or until 12 holes in addition to preceding 15 have 
been made. The needle now contains 45 stitches. 

From these 45 stitches, repeat whole of preceding pattern. When 45 
stitches are again on the needle, bind off. 

Knit thumb separately as follows : 

Cast on 2 stitches. Knit i row, then widen by throwing thread over 
once in middle. Next row plain. 

Widen the thumb in succeeding rows by throwing thread over, after 
1st stitch of row, and before last stitch of row. Alternate rows plain, 
knitting loops as stitches. 

Continue thus, for gusset, until needle contains 5 stitches. Then 
cast on 6 additional stitches. 

Next row, i plain, tto., all plain to last stitch, tto., i plain. 

Next row, all plain. 

So continue until 6 holes have been made at tip end of thumb. 

Make 2 more holes, knitting 2 stitches together, immediately after 
hole in each row. Otherwise, knit rows as before. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 27 

Make l more hole, knitting 2 together, before throwing thread, and 
2 together after hole. 

Next rows. Widen at hole by omitting to knit 2 together, in both 
rows. Narrow at other end, by knitting 2 together in both rows, next to 
hole. 

Now make two holes in straight edge corresponding with other straight 
edge at tip of thumb. Do this by throwing thread over, and narrowing 
only in alternate rows. Continue to narrow at lower end of thumb. 

Next narrow at both ends, until 6 holes have been made at upper end 
of thumb. Then knit straight edge of thumb plain, and bind off 6 stitches. 

Finish little triangle for gusset, corresponding to the other little tri- 
angle. Narrow at both ends of little rows, 2 holes at each slant of 
triangle. Reduce to 2 stitches, and bind off at point corresponding to ist 
hole. The whole thumb-piece will include 44 rows in all. 

Sew hand-piece up, accurately meeting the points for finger-ends. 
Sew together side-seam, for 17 stitches downward. Sew same seam from 
lower end, 8 stitches upward. The opening thus left is for thumb. Sew 
up thumb, accurately meeting rows, then insert it in mitten, meeting every 
row to a stitch. There will be 20 on each side, the extra stitches being 
taken up in joining slants of gusset. 

Knit the wrist separately, and sew on, accurately meeting row to row. 

The wrist for a baby's (or lady's) mitten may be any pretty knit lace 
pattern, about 2 inches in width. The one here given is the dainty, old- 
fashioned edging appropriately called " Baby Points." 

Cast on 12 stitches. 

1st row. K. 2, tto. twice, purl 2 together ; k. 2, tto. twice, k. 2 
together ; tto. twice, k. 2 together, tto. twice, k. 2 together. 

2d row. K. I, k. I loop, purl i loop ; repeat twice; k. 2 ; tto. twice, 
purl 2 together ; k. 2 plain. 

3d row. K. 2, tto. twice, purl 2 together ; k. 11 plain. 

4th row. Bind ofif 3. K. 7 plain, tto. twice, purl 2 together, k. 2 
plain. 

Repeat until 27 scallops or points have been made. Bind off, for i 
wrist. 

When the mitten is sewed up, finish by adding a bow of ribbon to 
the back of the wrist. This will serve to distinguish between the right 
and the left mitten, as well as adding to the effect. 



28 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




FANCY MITTEN. 

(See Rule on page 29.) 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 29 



LADY'S FANCY WIlTTEN. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's No. 300 knitting silk, lyi ounces, 4 No. 18 
knitting needles. 

For a lady's mitten, corresponding to a No. 6 kid glove, cast on 96 
stitches. For a larger or smaller mitten, use any suitable number of 
stitches, divisible by 8. Knit 8 rounds plain. 

9th round. Slip off one stitch without knitting, knit i, draw slipped 
stitch over stitch knit, throw thread over once. Repeat from begin- 
ning. (In throwing thread, throw end/;w« you.) 

Knit 8 rounds plain. 

18th round. Pick up on other needles the stitches first cast on, knit 
each stitch with each stitch of 17th round. This constitutes the hem of 
the mitten. 

Wrist pattern, ist round. Purl 2, throw thread over, 4 plain, knit 
2 together. Repeat. 

2d round. Purl 2, i plain, thread over, 3 plain, knit 2 together. 
Repeat. 

3d round. Purl 2, 2 plain, thread over, 2 plain, knit 2 together. 
Repeat. 

4th round. Purl 2, 3 plain, thread over, i plain, knit 2 together. 
Repeat. 

5th round. Purl 2, 4 plain, thread over, knit 2 together. Repeat. 

Repeat this pattern 7 or more times, according to the length of wrist 
desired. 

Next work a band of ribs by knitting i and purling i. So contmue 
for 5 or 6 rounds, then make the holes, in which to run ribbon or elastic, 
as follows : 

1st round. Knit i, purl i, throw thread over twice, and knit 2 
together. Repeat. 

2d round. Knit i, purl i, knit I loop, purl i loop. Knit 2, purl i, knit 

1 loop, purl I loop. Repeat from " knit 2." Last stitch of round, knit I. 

3d round. Knit i, purl i, knit 2 together; purl i, knit i, purl i, knit 

2 together. Repeat from 2d " purl i." 

Continue to rib, knit i, purl i, for 5 or 6 rounds more. Finish off 
wrist by i round of purl. 

Now divide the 96 stitches into 3 groups, 48 on one needle, 24 on 
each of the 2 others. The 48 will constitute the back of the hand. For 
the left-hand mitten, mark the 5th and 6th stitches from the 48, on the 
right-hand group of 24; for the right-hand mitten, mark the 5th and 6th 
stitches from the 48, on the left-hand group of 24, the marked stitches 
constituting the base of the thumb. The stitch upon each side of the 
5th and 6th is to be purled for the seam of the thumb. Our pattern is for 
the left hand— a skillful knitter can easily adapt it for the right, or make 
it larger or smaller. 

ist round of hand. Knit i group of 24 plain. Knit the other group 
of 24 plain, except for the 2 purled stitches, forming seam for thumb. 
Knit 2 plain at beginning of group of 48. Following is the pattern 
introduced into the back of the hand, upon the next 28 stitches. Re- 
mainder of round plain. 



30 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

1st round of pattern. Draw 2d stitch over ist, knit it, knit ist ; purl 
1, knit I. * Throw thread over once and knit i. Repeat from * 8 times. 
Purl I. Draw i stitch over, knit it, and knit the next. Repeat pattern 
once. 

2d round. Knit 2, purl i, knit 17 (each loop counting i stitch), purl 
I, knit 2. Repeat. 3d round. Knit 2, purl i, slip i, knit i, pass slipped 
stitch over i knitted, knit 13, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. Repeat. 4th 
round. Knit 2, purl i, slip i,knit i, pass slipped stitch over, knit 11, knit 
2 together, purl i, knit 2. Repeat. 5th round. Knit 2, purl i, slip i, 
knit I, pass slipped stitch over, knit 9, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. Re- 
peat. 6th round. Knit 2, purl i, slip i, knit i, pass slipped stitch over, 
knit 7, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. Repeat. 

Then repeat pattern from ist round. In every round of the hand, 
all stitches are to be knitted plain, except the 28 on the back of the hand, 
and the 2 purled stitches, forming seams for the thumb. 

Widen for the thumb by making i extra stitch between the 2 marked 
plain stitches, in the 3d round. In every 4th round thereafter, make 2 
extra stitches next to the 2 stitches following the original 5th and 6th 
stitches marked, until the thumb is sufficiently wide. In an average 
mitten for a lady, this will be when from 29 to 31 stitches have been 
made between the 2 purled stitches. The pattern upon the back of the 
hand will then have been repeated about 7 times. 

Slip off the thumb stitches with a darning needle and a piece of 
thread. Tie the ends of the thread securely, and dispose the hand 
stitches evenly upon the three needles. Knit 50 rounds plain, in average 
mitten, from 52 to 58 in a larger. 

Narrow for hand as follows : 

K. 2 together, k. 8, k. 2 together, etc., to end of round. If necessary, 
plain at end. 8 rounds plain. K. 2 together, k. 7, k. 2 together, etc., 7 
rounds plain. K. 2 together, k. 6, k. 2 together, etc., 6 rounds plain. K. 
2 together, k. 5, k. 2 together, etc., 5 rounds plain. K. 2 together, k. 4, 
k. 2 together, etc., 4 rounds plain. 

Narrow 3 times in every round thereafter, >^ of the round between 
each 2 narrowing, until each needle contains 4 stitches. Then narrow, 
until each needle contains 2 stitches. Break off the thread, pass it through 
a darning-needle, pass darning-needle through the 6 stitches, draw them 
to a point and fasten end of thread on inside. 

Now go back and pick up the thumb stitches, disposing them 
evenly on 3 needles. Knit 40 rounds plain, more or less, according to 
size of mitten. Narrow 3 times in every succeeding round, each narrow- 
ing marking y^ of the round, until each needle contains 2 stitches. 
Finish off as in hand. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 31 

LADY'S JERSEY MiTTEN. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk, lyi ounces, and a No. 2 star 
crochet hook. Single crochet stitch is used, with the hook put under 
the side of the stitch nearest the worker, and up through the centre of 
stitch instead of the usual way. 

Make a chain of 53 stitches and join in a ring, ist round, i single 
crochet in every chain. 2d round, i single crochet in every stitch ; re- 
peat the 2d round 40 times. 43d round. Make 1 1 chain, miss 1 1 , join in 
1 2th stitch (to start the thumb), 41 single crochet. 44th round, i single 
crochet in every stitch; repeat this round to end of 49th round. 50th 
round. (Narrow by missing i stitch) 52 single crochet in this round. 
53d round. Narrow 1,51 single crochet. 54th and 55th rounds, i single 
crochet in every stitch. 56th round. Narrow i, 50 single crochet. 57th 
round, i single crochet, in every stitch ; repeat this round to end of 70th 
round. 71st round. Narrow i, 10 single crochets, narrow i, 13 single 
crochets, narrow i, 10 single crochets, narrow i, 13 single crochets. 72d 
round. Narrow i, 10 single crochets, narrow i, 11 single crochets, narrow 
I, 10 single crochets, narrow i, il single crochets. 73d round. Narrow 
I, 9 single crochets, narrow i, 10 single crochets, narrow i, 9 single cro- 
chets, narrow i, 10 single crochets. 74th round. Narrow i, 8 single cro- 
chets, narrow i, 9 single crochets, narrow i, 8 single crochets, narrow i, 
9 single crochets. 75th round. Narr6w each alternate stitch to end of 
round; repeat this last round to end of mitten, and fasten thread. For 
the thumb : ist round. 22 single crochets ; repeat till there are 18 rounds, 
then narrow every alternate stitch in three successive rounds, and fasten 
thread. Finish at wrists with several rows of shells, or any fancy edge 
desired. These mittens are very elastic, and fit the hand and wrist 
nicely. 



Wristers. 

No. I. — Brainerd & Armstrong's No. 300 silk, i ounce, and 4 No. 18 
knitting-needles. Cast on 90 stitches for a medium size. Knit in plain 
ribs, of knit 2, purl 2, alternately. Finish off at the top and bottom with 
a row of crocheted edging worked in the wrister. 

No. 2. — Cast 40 stitches on 2 needles and 30 on i. Knit once around 
plain. Knit i, over, knit 3, slip i, narrow, bind over the one you slip, 
knit 3, over, knit i, over, knit 3, slip, narrow, and bind as before, and so 
continue ; make i stitch at the end of each needle. If you want a larger 
size, cast on 10 more stitches for each scallop that you add. 



32 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

Knitted Gloves For Gentlemen. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk No, 300, i)^ ounces, 4 knitting 
needles No. 17. 

Cast on 72 stitches, 24 on each needle ; join together, knit once 
around plain ; knit 40 rounds ribbed, 2 plain and 2 purl. After this 6 
rounds are knitted plain. Here begin the widening for the thumb. 

At the beginning of the ist needle throw silk over, knit 3, throw silk 
over again, and complete the remainder of the round plain. Next 2 
rounds are plain. 

At the beginning of the next one throw silk over, knit 5, silk over, 
complete plain. Two rounds plain. 

Continue widening in this way every 3d round, until there are 33 
stitches between the widenings. After this knit 6 rounds plain. 

Slip the 35 thumb stitches on to a thread or another needle ; turn 
work, and cast on 9 stitches in place of those slipped off; turn, and com- 
plete the round plain. Next round plain. 

In the 3d round from the thumb narrow twice, the first two of the 9 
stitches cast on, and the last 2. Narrow in the same place every alternate 
round, until there are but 72 stitches remaining. Knit 20 rounds plain. 

Now you begin the fingers. For the first i, take 10 stitches from the 
1st needle, and 10 from the last. Slip all the remaining stitches on to a 
thread. 

After knitting the 20 stitches, cast on 9 to a 3d needle ; join, and knit 
round and round until the work is the desired length, usually as long as 
the finger. The narrowing is done quickly ; knit 2, narrow, repeat the 
entire round. 2 rounds plain. 

For the 3d round knit i, narrow, entire round, i round plain. 

After this continue narrowing all the stitches until there are no more. 
Leave a little length of silk, and thread into a sewing needle, and fasten 
neatly and securely. 

For the 2d finger, take 9 stitches from the front of the glove and 9 
from the back, pick up the 9 stitches where the 9 were cast on before, to 
make the gore. Knit the 27 stitches, cast on 9 more and join together. 
Arrange the stitches on three needles, and knit i round plain. In 
every alternate round narrow the first 2 stitches, and the last 2 of the gores, 
until there are left but 29 stitches. Continue and finish this finger like 
the first. 

The 3d finger is worked exactly like the 2d. 

For the 4th, or little finger, the remaining stitches, 16 in number, are 
used ; it is knitted like the last 2, except casting on the 9 stitches. Pick- 
ing up the 9 from the gore gives 25 stitches for the finger. 

For thumb, take the 35 stitches from the thread, and pick up 9 from 
the gore, and work exactly like the fingers, narrowing until there are but 
35. stitches. These gloves are not rights and lefts, but fit either hand. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 33 



Knee-Warmers. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk No. 300, 2 ounces, 4 No. 17 
knitting needles. Cast on 99 stitches, 25 on one needle, and 37 on each 
of two remaining ones, using the 4th one for knitting. Knit alternately 
2 plain and 2 purl, all the way round to form the ribbing. After knitting 
70 rows of ribbing the knee gore is formed as follows : after the 70th row, 
knit I plain row and turn the work, knit all off on i needle, narrowing in 
this way : slip the ist stitch, knit the 2d and 3d stitches together, then 
knit plain until the last 3 stitches, knit 2 together and slip the last stitch, 
knit back plain on one needle. This gore is all worked with two needles, 
narrowing two stitches in every second row, as described, until there are 
only 10 stitches left on the needle, then take up stitches all around the 
gore on 3 needles, 99 in all, knit i plain row all around, and finish with 
37 rows of ribbing as above and cast off. These are very easily made, 
are comfortable and useful. 



Fancy pattern. 

Suitable for Mitten Wrist. 

Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8. Knit 8 rounds plain. 

9th round. Slip i, knit i, draw slipped stitch over plain, make i 
extra stitch. Repeat. 

Knit 7 rounds plain. Then pick up with other needles the stitches 
first cast on and knit each stitch off plainly, with each stitch of the next, 
or 17th round, thus forming a doubled edge, or hem, finished with a row 
of points. Then work the fancy design thus : 

1st round. Purl 3, tto., knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat. 

2d round. Purl 3, tto., knit I, knit 2 together, knit 2. Repeat. 

3d round. Purl 3, tto., knit 2, knit 2 together, knit i. Repeat. 

4th round. Purl 3, tto., knit 3, knit 2 together. Repeat. 

5th round. Purl 3, knit 3, knit 2 together, tto. Repeat. 

6th round. Purl 3, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit i, tto. Repeat. 

7th round. Purl 3, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2, tto. Repeat. 

8th round. Purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, tto. Repeat. 

Repeat this pattern until as deep as desired. 



34 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Crochet Edges. 



NDER this heading we give only edges that are handsomest done 
in silk ; they are adapted to skirts, sacques or children's clothing, 
and if made with our " Fast Color Crochet Silk," will stand wear 
and washing. 




THE EMILY Edge. 



Chain 27, i t. c. in 5th stitch of chain, * 2 ch., skip 2 stitches in 
foundation chain, i t. c. in next, repeat from* 4 times, 5 ch., miss 3, fasten 
in next with s. c. 

2d row. 2 ch., I2t. c. in ch. of 5, i ch., 4 t. c. in each of the spaces 
made by 2 ch., 5 ch. 

3d row. Repeat from beginning, using the spaces for the t. c. stitch, 
and fasten the chain of 5 in the 4th t. c. of scallop with s. c. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 35 



The tatting Edge. 




I St row. Ch. 6, join with s. s., ch. 3. 2d row. 2 t. c. in ring, ch. 2, 
2 1. c. in same place. 3d row. Ch. 4, 2 t. c. into centre of shell, ch. 2, 2 t.c. 
into same place, ch. 5, catch with s. c. into first chain of 3. 4th row. ch. i, 
12 s. c.into chain of 5, ch. 1,2 t. c. into shell, ch. 2, 2 t.c. into same place, 
catch with s. s. into chain. 5th row. Ch. 4, 2 t. c. into shell, ch. 2, 2 t. c. 
into same place, ch. 5, catch with s. c. into ch. of i. 6th row. Ch. i, 6 
s. c. into ch., ch. 5, catch back into middle of first scallop. 7th row. 
Ch. I, 12 s. c. into ch. of 5, 6 s. c. into half-finished scallop, ch. 1,2 t. c. 
into shell, ch. 2, 2 t. c. into same place, ch. i, catch with s. s. into ch. 
Repeat from 3d row, catching ch. 5 into the ch. of I instead of ch. of 3. 




WINDOW EDGE. 

Chain of 12 stitches, i t. c. in 4th stitch from the beginning of chain, 
2 ch., I t. c. in first stitch of ch. 2d row. 6 ch., i t. c. in the top of the 2d 
t. c, 2 ch., I t. c. in 3d stitch of chain loop. 3d row. 3 ch., 4 t. c. in first 
space, 12 t. c. in next, 4 t. c. in next. 4th row, i s. c. in top of each t. c. 
5th row. 6 ch., I t. c. in 4th s. c, 2 ch., i t. c. in 7th s. c. Repeat from 
2d row, and in making all scallops after the first one, at the end of 3d 
row fasten the last t. c. in loth s. c. of the preceding scallop. 



36 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Crochet Garters. 




Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk, ^ ounce. 

Make a chain of 19 stitches, ist row. Work 4 s. c. into foundation 
chain, ch. 11, work 4 s. c. into last four stitches of foundation chain. 2d 
row. Make a ch. of 3 stitches in turning, 4 s. c. into 4 s. c, ch. 11, 4 s. c. 
into 4 s. c. 3d row. 4 s. c. into 4 s. c, ch. 6, fasten into the centre of two 
of the chains of 1 1 with s. s., chain 5, 4 s. c. into 4 s. c, repeat from the 
beginning until you have 84 rows, then join and crochet a small shell all 
around both edges. Run silk elastic through the centre, leaving the 
joined chains on the right side, and finish with a bow of ribbon. 




This second cut is another style of garter easily made by crocheting 
to and fro on the chain of 1 1 , with s. c. instead of joining the chains. The 
shell on the edge is made with a little picot between each stitch. The 
picot is formed by making a chain of 3 and fastening with s. s. back into 
the first stitch of said chain. Draw the elastic through and finish with 
bow of ribbon the same as in first directions. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 37 



Crochet Wheels. 

The following wheels can be tastefully used in making tidies, table 
mats, and decorating scarf ends, and can be arranged to form rounds, 
squares or points, and are effectively used in lampshades. 




THE RING WHEEL. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk. Take a small brass ring and 
crochet it over with s. c, 48 stitches in all will be a good rule. 2d row. 
* I s. c, ch. I, skip one in first row, repeat from * 24 times. 3d row. * 2 
s. c. in ch. of i, ch. 5, repeat from * 12 times. 4th row. * ch. 3, fasten 
with s. s. into centre of ch. of 5, make 3 picots, using ch. of 3 for each 
and fasten in same stitch as ch. of 3, ch. 3 and fasten in centre of 2 s. c, 
repeat from star 12 times. 



38 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




SHELL AND RIBBON WHEEL. 



Use Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk and No. 7 satin ribbon. 6>i' 
inches of ribbon is used for each wheel. Join the ribbon into a ring and 
draw close together in the centre. Crochet all around the outer edge of 
the ribbon with s. c. for a foundation, ist row. * i d. c, ch. 2, i d. c. into 
same place as first, repeat from * 21 times. 2d row. * 2 d. c, into ch. of 2 
of the first row, ch. 2, 2 d. c, into same place as first, repeat from * until 
end of round. 3d row. 3 d. c, ch. 3, fasten back to form picot, 3 d. c, 
work the d. c.'s into the shell of the 2d row, and fasten the last one of 
each shell between the shells of the 2d row with a s. s. White ribbon 
and orange crochet silk make a pretty combination, and contrasting 
colors are prettier than to use the ribbon and silk the same color. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



39 




THE LYLE wheel. 



Use Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk. Chain 6, join in a ring, ist 
row. ch. 4, make 1 1 d. c. with i ch. between each, into ring formed of 
ch. 6, fasten to 3d stitch of ch. 4. 2d row. ch. 5, work i d. c. with 2 ch. 
between into each d. c. of first row, join to 3d stitch in ch. 5. 3d row. 
ch. 18, turn and make i d. c. in 6th stitch of ch., ch. i, i d. c. in 8th 
stitch of ch., ch. i, i d. c. in loth stitch of ch., 12 d. c, over ch., join to 
2d d. c. in second row. Turn. 4th row. * ch. 8, i d. c. in 7th d. c.done 
over ch., ch. i, i d. c. in 9th stitcl], ch. i, i d. c. in iith stitch, ch. i, i 
d. c. in 13th stitch; turn, ch. 4, i d. c. in 2d d. c. of last row, ch. i. i d. c. 
in 3d of last row, ch. i, I d. c. in 4th of last row, 12 d. c. over ch. join to 
3d d. c. in 3d row. Repeat from * until you have 12 points, join with 
hook or with needle. 



40 The Brainerij & Armstrong Co.'s 




THE FLORENCE WHEEL. 

Use Brainerd and Armstrong crochet silk. Ch. 6, join in a ring. 
1st row. 12 s. c, into the ring, join with s. s. 2d row. * i s. c. into first 
s. c. of first row, 2 s. c. into second, repeat fi-om star five times, join with 
s. s. The six divisions are worked separately, and are attached to the 
central ring and with each other as the work progresses. For the first 
division ch. 12, turn, make i s. s. in first ch. (the first chain after turning 
is the last one formed), 20 s. c. around the 12 ch., join by a s. s. to second 
s. c. of the central ring, turn and work back, doing i s. c. into outer vein of 
each 20 s. c. just formed ; turn, work towards ring, * i s. c. into outer vein 
of each of 4 s. c, 4 ch., repeat from star three times more, i s. c. into each 
of next 4 s. c, join to third stitch of ring. This completes the first divi- 
sion. Commence the second by making i s. s. into fourth stitch of ring, 
12 ch., join to second picot (the hole formed by ch. of 4), of first division 
with a s. s., turn and work hereafter as in first division. The third, 
fourth and fifth divisions are worked like the second, the sixth and last must 
be joined to the first while forming the second picot, by fastening the 
point of first division by a s. s. with the third stitch in the ch. of 4 that forms 
the second picot from the ring, then make the fourth stitch in this picot 
and continue the work to a finish at the joining by a s. s. in last stitch in 
the ring. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



4i 



BLACK CROCHETED BEADED BAG. 

(MRS. Snyder's pattern.) 




Materials: 3 spools Brainerd & Armstrong's Double F black silk, 
or use 4 balls of Brainerd & Armstrong's New Crochet Silk, one large 
bunch of cut beads, and a No. 2 star crochet hook. 

Strin<- the beads on the silk before you begin to crochet, and always 
push the bead on the silk before'you take the stitch. Form a foundation 
chain of 150 stitches, join in a ring, use the short crochet stitch and cro- 
chet 2 plain rows, when you work the second row take up both stitches 
in the top of the first row. Make the third and fourth rows plain rowsof 
beads. Start the squares by crocheting * 5 plain stitches and 5 stitches 



42 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



with beads, continue this for 5 rows when you will have a complete row 
of squares, start the next row with 5 stitches with beads, then 5 plain 
stitches and continue for 5 rows. You will find you have a plain square 
over a beaded one ; repeat froni * until you have 18 rows of squares which 
you may finish with 2 plain rows of beads and 20 rows of plain crochet for 
the top. This will make a bag 9^ x 7 inches, a very useful size. In all 
bead work, the beads will be on the wrong side of the work, and the 
article being made must be turned after it is finished. A handsome finish 
for across the bottom of the bag can be made with a row of crocheted 
rings, any size desired, and a tassel formed of the beads fastened in the 
centre of each ring. The top should be finished with a strip of silk 
seven inches deep, turned down two inches at the top to make a frill and 
casing. Two pieces of ribbon i inch wide and 27 inches long are run 
through the casing to draw the bag together. 



LONG Crochet Purse. 




Brainerd & Armstrong purse silk 2 spools, 2 bunches steel beads 
No. 8. 

Make a ch. of 84 stitches, work once across in single crochet, then 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 43 



join it together. Work 3 rows more in s. c, then work in 6 steel beads, 
then 6 plain stitches, repeat the 6 beads and 6 stitches, through the row ; 
work 5 more rows like the last ; this gives you a steel block and a plain 
silk block. Alternate by working 6 beads over the plain silk block, and 
a plain silk block over the steel block. Do this until you have 6 rows of 
blocks. Work 4 rows plain. Now commence the opening in the centre, 
by making 2 ch. and i d. c. in every third stitch through the row. At 
end of row turn, and work back, making 2 ch. and i d. c. in top of i d. c. 
in last row. Repeat this last row until you have 21 rows, then join, anc 
work 4 plain rows (be sure and have 84 stitches), in s. c, then put I 
bead in every stitch for one row. Next row, 5 beads, i plain stitch, 5 beads, 
I plain stitch. Next row. 4 beads, 2 plain stitches. Next row. 3 beads, 3 
plain stitches. Next row. 2 beads, 4 plain stitches. Next row. i bead, 5 
plain stitches. Then 4 rows plain. Next row. i bead, 5 plain stitches. Next 
row. 2 beads, 4 plain stitches. Next row. 3 beads, 3 plain stitches. Next 
row. 4 beads, 2 plain stitches. Next row. 5 beads, and i plain stitch. 
Then 7 rows with a bead in each stitch. The remaining rows, a bead in 
every stitch, narrowing off 6 stitches in each row, bringing the end to a 
point. Sew a tassel on this end, and fringe on the other end. After cro- 
cheting the opening (d. C-). slip on both rings. In crocheting any bead 
work, the side held towards you is the wrong side. Make 3 ch. at com- 
mencement of each row at the opening, in centre of purse. 



44 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




Crocheted Neck-Tie. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk i^ 
ounces, a small straight crochet hook. The stitch 
used in the neck-tie that is illustrated, is known 
as the Tunisian or Afghan stitch and is well 
adapted for this purpose. Make a foundation 
chain of 30 stitches, put the needle into the 
second stitch of the chain, draw a loop 
through, and so on until you have taken up a 
loop for every stitch in the chain, make a chain 
stitch and begin the second row in this way, 
put the thread around the needle, draw it 
through two loops, put the thread around 
again, and again draw it through two loops 
and so continue to the end of the row. The 
third row is like the first, and the fourth like 
the second and so on. After making a length 
of 18 inches, narrow to 15 stitches, and make 
a strip 14 inches long, then widen to 30 stitches 
and make a strip 8 inches long. The tie is 
then ready for lining, for which purpose use a 
thin silk or ribbon the same shade as the tie. 
This hning prevents the tie from stretching 
out of shape. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



45 



CROCHET RINGS. 







Crocheted rings are used so extensively now that we give the details 
in the above cut, and feel that an explanation is unnecessary. There is 
very little fancy work of to-day in which these rings cannot be effectively 
used. As a finish for purses, shopping bags, etc., they are particularly 
pretty, also for a tidy, being used between ribbons or lace. In fact you 
will be surprised how many really beautiful things can be made by using 
these rin^s, in combination with a little ribbon, lace and ingenuity. 



46 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




TEA COSEY. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk, i ounce, X yard silk or soft 
woolen goods, a No. 2 star crochet hook. For a cosey for an ordinary- 
sized tea-pot, make a chain of 160 stitches, join, ist row. Counting back 
* do 5 d. c. into the 4th stitch of ch. i s. c. into 8th stitch, ch. 2, 5 d. c. 
into the 8th stitch, repeat from * fastening the 5 d. c. into every 4th stitch 
until end of row. 2d row. * ch. 2, 5 d. c. into ch. 2 of first row, i s. c. 
into next ch. of 2, ch. 2, 5 d. c. into same ch. of 2, repeat from * to end 
of row. 3d row. Same as second. 4th row. * ch. 3, fasten with s. s. into 
ch. of 2, repeat from * to end of row. 5th row. Ch. 4, i d. c. into each 
stitch of ch. 6th row. Ch. 4, i d. c. into every other d. c. with r ch. 
between. 7th row. Ch. 4, i d. c. into every stitch of previous row. Re- 
peat from first row until you have four rows each of shells and open 
work. Then line, draw the top in slightly, the two edges together, and 
finish with a bow of ribbon. Narrow ribbon drawn through the open row 
makes a pretty finish. Our artist has not done justice to this cosey, for 
it is much prettier than the cut represents it ; he does not deserve any 
nice hot tea. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



47 



Burnt Match Receiver. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk ana 
a No. 2 star crochet hook, piece of ribboi. 
or silk 3^ x8 inches, a tumbler 3 inches 
high, 3 inches in diameter. Make a chain 
of III. 1st row. I t. c. in 8th stitch of ch., 
ch. 2, I t. c. in 3d stitch, ch. 2, i t. c. in 3d 
stitch, ch. 5, It. c. in same stitch as last 
t. c. 2 t. c. in next, 2 in next, 2 in next, 2 
in next, ch. 2, and repeat 5 times from be- 
ginning, ch. 2, I t. c. in last stitch of ch. 
2d row. Ch. 5, I t. c. in 4th stitch, ch. 2, i 
t. c. in 3d, ch. 2, I t. c. in 3d, ch. 5, 9 t. c. in 
ch. of 5, ch. 2, I t. c. in 3d t. c. in cluster, 
ch. 2, I t. c. in 3d, ch. 2, i t. c. in 3d, ch. 5, 
10 t. c. in ch. of 5, ch. 2, repeat from begin- 
ning of row, ch. 2, I t. c. in end of loop. 
Repeat 2d row until you have 11 rows in 
all. Finish the top with row of small shells, 
line, draw in close at the bottom, and hang 
either with ribbon, or cord and tassel made 
of the silk. 




48 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 





Twine Bag. 

So many stitches both in crochet and knitting 
can be used for this useful httle article that nearly 
everybody can make one to suit their own fancy. 
The one illustrated is made in alternate blocks of 
blue and gold. One of the prettiest we have 
noticed, is formed of very small crochet rings, done 
with Brainerd & Armstrong's purse silk, black, 
finished with crimson ribbons and filled with a ball 
of crimson cord. An open work stitch with the 
twine some contrasting color is quite ornamental. 
For such a one the following stitch proves satisfac- 
tory. Make a chain 9 inches long, work * 3 t. c. 
into the 5th stitch of ch., ch. 3, 1 1. c, into same stitch 
as 3 t. c, skip 2 in ch. and repeat from *. Join. 
2d row. Ch. 3, * 3 t. c, ch. 3, i t. c. into ch. of 3 
in first row, repeat from *. All the rows are now 
made the same as the second. The bag should be 
4X long, and finished with ribbon and scissors. 



SPOOL BAG. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk % ounce, 
a No. 2 star crochet hook. This little affair is de- 
signed to hold a spool of silk while using it for 
knitting or crocheting. It can be hung on the arm 
and will keep the silk from becoming soiled. The 
bottom is in the shape of a hat and the top cro- 
cheted into it. Chain 3, join, and work with s. c. 
round and round, widening gradually till the hat 
becomes 9 inches in circumference; turn the edge 
over on the right side about an inch and crochet 
the bag into it. ist row. i d. c. in every other 
stitch with I ch. between. 2d row. 1 d. c. in 
every space, with l ch. between, do 15 rows in all, finish the top with a 
row of shells, and draw a cord and tassel through the 6th row from 
the top. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 49 



TOBACCO BAG. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk, 2 spools red, i spool gold, a No. 

2 star crochet hook. 

ist round. 241. c. under the chain, join to first t. c. with one s. c. 
To commence the next round work 3 chain to take place of the first t. c; 
this applies to each round, so that we shall not repeat the directions. 
Commence at the centre of bottom of bag with red silk and work 8 
chains, join round. 

2d round, i t. c. into i stitch, 2 t. c. into the next; repeat all round. 
3d to 6th round. With gold silk work i t. c. into each of 2 stitches, 2 
into the next ; repeat all round. 

7th round. With red silk work i t c. into each of 2 stitches, 2 in the 
next, then with gold silk work i t. c. into each of 6 stitches; repeat from 
the beginning of the round. In order to make the number of stitches 
right so that the Vandyke patterns come evenly, you must either pass 
over a stitch, or work twice into a stitch at the end of the round if neces- 
sary. 

8th round. With red silk work i t. c. into each of 4 red stitches, 2 
red into the first gold, i gold into each of the 4 next gold, 2 red into the 
next gold; then repeat from the beginning of the round. 

9th round, i red into each stitch of red, i red into next gold, i gold 
into each of 2 next gold, i red into the next gold. Repeat from the begin- 
ning of the round. 

loth and nth rounds. Work entirely with red silk, i t. c. into each 
stitch. The i ith round should have 1 54 stitches. 

I2th round. The Greek Key pattern is commenced in this round. 
With red work 2 t. c. into a stitch, i into each of 2 next stitches. 2 in the 
next ; with gold, x t. c. into each of 10 stitches. Repeat from the begin- 
ning of the round. 

13th round, i t. c. with red into each red stitch of last round, i gold 
into each of 2 next gold, i red into each of 6 next gold, i gold into each 
of 2 next gold. Repeat from beginning of round. 

14th round. I red into each of 5 red, 2 into the next, i gold into 
each of 2 gold, i red into 4 next stitches, i gold into each of 7 next 
stitches. Repeat from beginning of round. 

15th round. With red, i t. c. into each of 7 stitches, i gold into each 
of 2 stitches. I red into each of 4 next stitches, i gold into each of 2 
next stitches, i red into each of 5 next stitches ; repeat from beginning 
of round. 



5© The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

1 6th round, i gold into each of 7 red stitches, i into each of 2 gold, 
I red into each of the next red stitches, 1 gold into 7 next stitches, repeat 
from beginning of round. Now work about 2 inches of red in i t. c, 
into each stitch without increase or decrease. 

Then work another Greek Key pattern, as described in 12th to 16th 
rounds, omitting the increase. Work 2 rows plain. For a top finish. 
1st round, i t. c. into a stitch, 2 ch., pass by 2 stitches, and repeat. 2d 
round, i d. c. into each stitch of the last round. 3d round, i t. c. into 
each of 2 stitches, 2 ch., pass by 2 stitches, and repeat. 4th round. Like 
2d round. The 3d and 4th rounds are repeated twice more. Now with 
red silk finish the diamond at the bottom of the bag by working 
lines of chain stitches from the depth between the points to the centre of 
the 1st row, either with a needle or crochet hook. Line bag with India 
rubber or chamois, and run red silk cord and tassels through the holes. 



Work Bag. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk ^ ounce, a No. 2 star crochet 
hook, 2 yards narrow satin ribbon, piece of satin 5x9 inches. This little 
bag will be found very convenient for holding knitting or crochet work. 
Make a ch. of 40 stitches. 20 rows around it in s. c. stitch widening on 
each side, taking up only the back loop of the stitch. 

The following 22 rows are formed of shells made in this way : 2 d. c. 
in 1st stitch, i ch., 2 d. c. in the same stitch, the 2d shell in 5th stitch from 
last. The next row of shells are joined in the former row. The last 
rows are caught down between each with a s. c. stitch. Make the handles 
of cord formed of the silk. Draw the ribbon through the open soaces, 
make a bag of the satin and fasten in the top of the shells, turning the 
satin over at the top to form a frill and casing, and draw the ribbon 
through the casing. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 51 

Hair Receiver. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk i ounce, a No. 2 star crochet 
hook. This is something new and very pretty, is in the shape of a bag 
drawn to a point at the bottom, and finished at the top with lace. 

For the bag. Make a ch. of 138 stitches, join it. 

ist and 2d rows, i d. c. in every other stitch, with i ch. between. 

3d row. 20 d. c, 3 ch., 20 d. c, and so on until you have finished 
that round. 

4th row. 18 d. c. in the middle of 20 in row 3, 2 ch., i d. c. in open 
space, 2 ch. 18 d. c, etc. 

You will see that on every row there will be i less on each side of 
the point making more of the open crochets each time. After the point 
is finished, make 1 5 rows of the open crochet. 

The lace on the topis made by making a ch. 140 stitches. 

2d row. Work a d. c. in every 3d stitch with 3 ch. between. 

3d row. 9 d. c. in every other space. 

4th row. 2 ch. fasten in scallop with a s. c, 4 ch., fasten in middle 
of scallop, 4 ch. in same place, 9 ch. in same, 4ch. fasten, 4 ch. fasten in 
5th stitch, 2 ch. in the end of scallop with this around all the scallops. 
Make the scallop- on the opposite side in the same manner. 

Cut a strip of paste board 3 inches wide, and long enough to fit in 
the top of the bag, cover it with satin on both sides. 

Sew the bag after it is lined with thin silk on it, and the lace on each 
edge. Gather the bag together on the bottom and attach a full bow of 
satin ribbon the color of the silk. Two pieces of the same are sewed on 
the top and tied in a bow from which to suspend the receiver. 



Embroidery. 



'he present style of embroidery is for conventional designs, all over 
patterns, and flowers that are graceful and effective. The half- 
solid Kensington is a preferred stitch, as is also the darning stitch ; 
both of these are illustrated in our fancy stitches, of which we 
give a large number on page 73, etc. Our new art canvases and embroi- 
dery silks are made to meet the demand caused by this style of work, 
and we call your attention to our Roman Floss, something entirely new. 



5^ The Brai.n'erd & Armstrong Co.'s 

and which can be used advantageously in all the embroidery of to-day, 
also our Silk-faced Canvas, of which we make numerous designs, and 
are constantly adding others. AppHque embroidery of various kinds has 
quite superseded " crazy work," and it offers a large field for ingenuity 
and artistic taste. Although often done with very expensive materials, it 
can be made wonderfully effective with cheaper ones ; and our Waste 
Embroidery Silk may he used to great advantage. Odds and ends of 
velvet, satin or plush, will help to produce a very rich-looking article. 

Thus a handsome cover for a book is taken partly from an old Irish 
design, in which the surface was entirely covered with bars and triangles of 
darning separated by outline stitches. It could, however, be greatly im- 
proved by using small pieces of plush for the triangles aud darning the bars 
and sides only, the outlining being done with gold embroidery silk. Old-red 
plush and old-pink darning silk would make a very handsome cover ; so 
with dark and light peacock blue. In the latter case, the bars and sides 
could be darned with gold-colored silk and red outlining, with French 
knots in bright colors sprinkled through the darning to represent jewels. 
The foundation of these covers may be of linen or fine crash in its natu- 
ral tint of cream, which is far more desirable than bleached linen. 

Another pretty style of Applique is to crochet in ordinary foundation 
chain, silk of any desirable color and use it as a narrow braid in some 
pretty design. This crochet applique offers many possibilities ; and it will 
be found very useful in connection with other work. Those who have 
odds and ends left from the patch-work mania, can convert them into 
things of beauty with the aid of applique ; and by purchasing sample 
leaves, petals, etc., others maybe cut from these patterns from very small 
bits of materials. The Thistle is a very effective flower for this kind of 
work and the shape easy to copy. For the round part, a pretty shade of 
green velvet crossed in small diamonds with gold-colored embroidery 
silk, and for the top outlined rays close together in medium mulberry and 
very pink lilac. Another pretty device is the flat Tudor rose, and with 
these two the Shamrock is effectively combined. The subject of applique 
is almost inexhaustible, nevertheless we will leave it and tell you some- 
thing of an old embroidery lately revived, and called Mountaiellick 
Work, it having derived its name from the place where it originated, 
Mountmellick, in Ireland. It is rich and heavy looking, and we find our 
Twisted Embroidery Silk just the thing for it. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



53 



Mountmellick Work. 




A PANSY IN MOUNTMELLICK WORK. 



DESIGNS of large flowers and 
leaves, trailing vines, etc., look particu- 
larly well in this work; and borders for 
mantles, table-covers, and curtains can 
be very effectively decorated with it. 
The pattern is stamped as for ordinary 
embroidery and the designs and stitches 
used are such as will have the richest 
effect. Conventional roses, sun-flowers 
and lilies are very desirable ; also the 
passion-flower, ivy, chestnut ; and Pome- 
granates, too, are very handsome, ears 
of wheat and barley, grapes, berries, 
etc., all work in well. All Mountmellick 
work has, where this is possible, a heavy 
outline, often in buttonhole stitch, and 
sometimes in French-knot stitch ; but stern or outline stitch is also used 
for the veining of leaves, and for outlining leaves and flowers. Pan- 
sies in buttonhole stitch and point de Bruxelles are very handsome and 
not at all difficult. Our cut on this page is so clear that further description 
is unnecessary. On page 54 we give a spray of blackberries and leaves 
which is very showy. The berries are worked in close clusters of French 
knots, with very large ones in the centre to give a raised appearance. 
The blossoms of palest pink are done in raised satin stitch worked length- 
ways over a closely padded foundation, with a centre of three French 
knots. The lower part of the stem is done in laid stem stitch, a spike 
stitch put in here and thereon each side to represent a thorn ; the remain- 
der of the stem is done in ordinary stem stitch. For the leaves, one is 
outlined in French knots and filled in with bullion stitches, while the other 
is done in satin stitch with the stem stitch through the centre. Page 55 
illustrates a maiden-hair fern ; this is a beautiful decoration for many 
articles, and they are very easily worked. Satin stitch running from top 
to bottom of leaf is the only one employed, except for the stem, which is 
worked throughout in stem stitch. The dainty green, embroidered on 
cream color, or pale pink, will be found very pretty. On page 57 you 
will find a branch of passion flowers and leaves, very showy and hand- 
some. 



54 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




8PRAY OF BLACKBERRIES AND LEAVES, 
(Description on page 53.) 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



55 




MAIDEN HAIR FERN. 
(Description on page 53.) 



■56 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

Passion Flowers and leaves. 

This beautiful vine with its clearly cut leaves and blossoms is peculi- 
arly graceful and readily adapted to almost any purpose ; as a bordering 
it is quite unequaled. For the stem, except in the delicate tendrils, chain 
stitch is very suitable, and outline stitch for the rings. The lower leaf in the 
illustration is buttonholed all around, and veined through the centre with 
French knots ; while the upper one is outlined with French knots and 
filled in with herring-bone. This kind of leaf is outlined with stem stitch 
or not, according to the fancy of the worker, but outlining gives it a more 
finished look. The flower petals are worked across in well-raised satin 
stitch, and if outlined with gold thread will be all the handsomer. For 
the crown, a circle or half circle (as the flower appears more or less full) 
of bullion stitches, while the centre is of satin stitch, highly raised. From 
this centre proceed five small stamens (the sacred stigma) composed of 
one or two outline stitches with a tiny French knot at the end of each. 

In Mountmelhck work quite a number of stitches are sometimes 
used in the same design, as you will have seen by the preceding descrip- 
tions and illustrations, the object in view being to make the embroidery 
appear as rich as possible. Still, a large leaf worked solid in rows of 
buttonhole stitch, while it seems odd and inartistic, is really very effect- 
ive. There is, however, a method of doing it and an attention to little 
details, which gives the proper finish. The rows are worked from the 
centre of the leaf (through which you first run a line of stem stitch) to 
the outer edge, and the silk must not be fiistened off at the end of a row, 
but turned to work the next line backwards, and so on through one side 
of the leaf. The other side is worked in the same manner. With these 
suggestions about this particular branch of embroidery, we will pass on 
to other things, and leave you to display your skill in that line to suit 
your own fancy, and will be delighted to furnish the silks used in your 
work. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



57 




PASSION FLOWERS AND LEAVES. 
(Description, page 56.) 



58 Thf, Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



■~1 



The above cut is that of a sofa-pillow made of our Silk-faced Art- 
canvas. The design is worked in half- Kensington, outline and satin 
stitch, and the foundation is darned. Our Roman floss in several shades 
of pink is used throughout, being split for the darning, the peculiar twist 
of the silk allowing this to be done without injuring it for use. The back 
of the pillow is made of silk or canvas to suit the taste. A pretty style 
of pillow is made of two round pieces of art canvas, about i6 inches in 
diameter, cut in scallops or points around the edges, and laced together 
with a silk cord over a silk or satin puff, which has first been sewed firmly 
to the filled lining. The scallops or points are buttonholed with English 
twist and an effective design embroidered on the piece used for the top 
with Roman floss. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



59 






f^T^TrfiassTn 



nTaiciTTfTTisa 






fil'^i^^^ll #: t |L,.:,:. ^^^,..,: 



vUJu^vU^v* 



CAKE OR BREAD DOYLEY. 
(Description, page 61.) 



6o 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




No. 1. 



T 


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'i 


1 


■ 


l^gBj 


iIp^ii 


iliiSSIIi 


iillHIi 


IjBKiJi 


1 


■ 1 


JjjjSjp 


,■1! 


""■! 


IIIHII 


■ill 


=^s^^ 


^"=%i 




■Hnili llliiiiinBiar/aii ii 


■■II 


lllHISI^HI 1 


iiii[iB^aiiiii' 


iiiM i 




iHRSII llM'sSfSiUl 11 


1^M\ 


1 1 HkH 


1 IRkII 1 


warn 


L 


ipmiiiii;;iiilEjiHli!l 


IBHil 


' 


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iSm\ 



No. 2. 





No. 3. 



•No. 4. 



(Details of Cake Doyley on page 59.) 
(Description, page 61.) 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 6i 

Cake or Bread Doyley. 

(See cut on page $g.) 

The doyley illustrated is made of fine undressed linen, pure white, 
and Brainerd & Armstrong's Twisted Embroidery silk. Cut a square of 
linen by the thread, loxio inches. Draw a thread one inch from the 
edge all the way across each side ; this allows for the fringe. One- eighth 
of an inch from this thread draw out threads for one-eighth of an inch, 
leave same width space solid, and draw threads for same width space ; 
this makes the border inside the fringe. Work the solid space in the 
centre of this border according to cut No. i on page 60. One-eighth of 
an inch from the last drawn thread in border, draw threads for one-half 
inch all the way around. The blocks in each corner are one inch scjuare, 
the brick-shaped blocks on the sides i x yz inch, and the centre 
blocks }4 inch square. The drawn work through the centre is all % 
inch wide. The 8th inch solid inside the border is buttonholed on the 
edge towards the centre of doyley with fine silk. The pattern is laid out 
according to cut No. 2, page 60, and the open squares filled in the centre 
like cut No. 3. The thread is woven in and out like darning in this 
figure, until you have carried the thread all the way around five times, 
then carry it to the drawn work, buttonhole through the centre of this, 
taking the threads up in even bunches with each stitch until you have 3 
bunches, and then to the centre of next space. The corner blocks are 
not open in the centre as in the cut, but a design like cut No. 4, page 60, 
is worked on the centre of each block. The needle is put under two 
threads, taken back over one of these and passed again under two, count- 
ing the one you have put it over as one of these two. Do this until you 
have taken the thread all the way around for nine times. The little open 
squares in the corners of the border are filled in with a cross-stitch. Do 
not fringe until it is finished. This is a very simple and easy piece of 
drawn work, but is dainty and beautiful. It can be made with any 
color of our Twisted Embroidery silk, as it is a wash silk. 



62 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




Table Mat. 

Materials for 5 mats, i ^ yards white Java canvas, 60 skeins Brain- 
erd & Armstrong's Giant embroidery silk. Now do not be frightened at 
the amount of silk, for the mats are so handsome, done with it, that you 
will not mind the expense, and they will wash and wear everlastingly. 
Leave 20 stitches each way and begin at corner star. Make one mat 10 
stars X 8. Two, 8 stars x 6. Two, 6 stars x 4. Cut the silk for the stars 
19 inches long. The stars are 8 stitches x 8, and the silk is put into every 
other stitch at thfe outer edge and carried into the centre of the star. The 
edges at the frirlge and on each side of the stars are buttonholed, and 
eight stitches form the border between the fringe and stars, with a double 
cross stitch worked through the four centre stitches. Leave one stitch 
between this work and the buttonholing and one stitch to be drawn out 
between the stars and the border. Also leave one stitch between each 
star, and betwfeen the centre and stars, but do not draw them out or make 
the fringe until the other work is all done. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 63 

About some Things Useful and 
Ornamental. 

BY MARY L. McKINSEY. 

Plate Doy leys. — Doyleys to be used on the tea-table under the plates 
are made by cutting heavy undressed linen into circles the size of a 
breakfast plate. Divide the edges into twelve equal parts, cut into 
squares, points or scallops, not over iji^ inches deep. Buttonhole these 
edges with heavy white silk, and embroider all over design in the centre. 
They can all have a different design, pansies for one, dogwood blossoms 
for another, wild rose, violets, and some conventional designs such as 
are shown on pages 86 and 87 for the others. These are something new 
and are very much admired. Flowers are all done in their natural color. 

An envelope-shaped letter tablet is cut from strong linen stiffening 
such as tailors use, and we will say lined with violet satin with a thin 
interlining of cotton wadding, sprinkled with violet powder, with an 
outside covering of silk pongee embroidered in violets. The flowers are 
of course worked before the material is put on the case. Work the stems 
of the flowers with light yellowish green silk, and the violets with light 
and dark violet silk, according to the shadings. Make the light space 
on the lower leaf of a flower white with violet markings, and some of the 
violets white with outlines and markings of light violet. Make the cen- 
tres yellow. Tie it in the centre v/ith violet ribbons. 

A handsome shopping bag is made of silk with an ornamentation 
of crocheted rings in the form of a pyramid. Put two or three rows of 
rings across each side of the bag at the bottom, then gradually taper them 
towards the top until you have one ring on the point. The rings and 
bag should be of the same color, and silk tassels knotted into the rings 
across the bottom. A bag 12x15 inches is a pretty and convenient size, 
and is drawn up with ribbons run through a casing at the top, with a frill 
for a finish. 

A useful variation of the double cushion, now put on the back of a 
chair for a head-rest, is made by covering a piece of pasteboard the same 
size as the cushion, with apiece of the silk used for cushion ; on this put a 



64 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

full pocket drawn in at the top with ribbon and finished with bow of the 
same in the centre. Crocheted rings are sewed to one edge of both 
cushion and pocket-back, about 1% inches apart, and the two are then 
laced together with ribbon, leaving bow and ends at each side. When 
thrown over the top of a chair the pocket is found useful for holding 
fancy work or papers. 

A dainty jewel-casket which possesses the merit that its contents 
may be seen and examined without raising the cover, is made in this 
way. The top and sides are made of glass, which may be purchased 
in the exact sizes desired at small cost. The sides and ends of the glass 
sections are finished with velvet or satin ribbon, put on like a binding 
and secured with paste. The sides are fastened to position by means of 
invisible stitches, the cover by a pretty ribbon bow on each back corner, 
an end being attached to the sides and cover to serve as hinges. 
Bows of the same size are tacked to the front corners of the cover. The 
casket as thus constructed is placed on a piece of pasteboard that extends 
four inches beyond the casket on all sides, and which has first been cov- 
ered with a slight layer of wadding on the top, sprinkled with sachet 
powder, and top and bottom covered with satin. A piece of lace four 
inches wide is shirred on hat elastic and slipped over the casket, its full 
opposite edges are disposed of in shallow plaits and fastened to the edge 
of the pasteboard. The effect of the lace is very dainty. 

An oval section of cardboard covered with silk forms the bottom of 
a pretty bag, which may be hung over a chair or in any convenient place 
to serve as a catch-all. Two sections of silk, one for the lining and one 
for the outside, are joined smoothly to the bottom ; and near the top 
is formed a casing, in which cords are run to draw the bag up with, and 
form a deep frill edge. If made of plain silk, a row of disks cut from 
plush or suitable cloth, and embroidered in flowers, are secured at inter- 
vals all around the bottom of the bag, with elaborate effect. Figured 
India or China silks with their pretty colorings and patterns are hand- 
some for these bags and do not need additional decoration. 

Combmed Fancy-work Apron and Bag. — The apron is made of fine 
scrim or linen. Take a piece of either about a yard long, fold it up at the 
bottom one-third its length to form a pocket. Stitch a ribbon underneath 
to the edge of the upturned portion, to form two casings, and continue it 
across the apron at the back of the pocket. In these casings run ribbon 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 65 



and tie in bows at the sides of the pocket. Finish the top of the apron 
with an underfacing of ribbon, which forms a casing for a ribbon that 
adjusts the apron to the waist. Decorate the pocket with an embroidered 
spray. When you remove the apron after wearing, fold the part above 
the pocket carefully inside the pocket and draw up the pocket ribbons to 
form the bag. 

A pretty photograph-case that stands on the table is made as fol- 
lows : Cut two sections of cardboard 8x15 inches, two 8x7 inches. 
Cover them all on one side with old-rose velvet or plush, and on the 
other side with cream-colored surah or China silk. Join the suTall sections 
to the large ones at the bottom edges, thus forming a pocket on each 
large section, and sew triangular pieces of silk to each end of the pockets 
to give width and spring to the pocket. Join the large sections at the top 
and finish with bows of ribbon. You will now have a case that can be made 
to stand alone. The silk is intended to be the lining, and the pocket can 
be decorated either with embroidery or a heavy-looking lace can be used 
across the top. 

A Bag for Soiled Linen. — This is a useful article for summer tourists, 
and when made has the appearance of a long purse. The material used 
is basket canvas. The bag should be 10 inches wide and 36 inches long, 
when finished. With wash embroidery silk work a pretty design through 
the centre of one side. On the other side make an opening in the seam 
9 inches from one end and 12 inches long. Slip a large fancy ring over 
one end of the bag and well towards the centre, through which tie a rib- 
bon with which to hang the bag up. Finish the ends with tassels or fancy 
metal ornaments. 

A very nice bedroom slipper can be made from Java canvas, embroi- 
dered in point Russe with filoselle. Red canvas worked with blue, brown 
with green, or blue with gold, makes a good combination. The soles are 
of cork, and the slipper must be lined with silk to match the color of the 
embroidery. The canvas is cut regular slipper shape, bound at the 
edges, and finished with a ruching of ribbon. The heel is turned down, 
so that the slipper can be easily put on and off. 

A sleeve holder is a cord crocheted of silk with a ring fastened to 
each end of the cord. Make a ch. of 5, join it, then crochet with a s. c. 
in the back loop of stitch in continuous rounds until you have a strip j( 



66 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

of a yard. Crochet the rings as on page 45. After having used this once 
you will never care to be without it. One ring is slipped on the first 
finger and the cord brought down and wound tightly around the sleeve 
near the wrist, leaving enough of the cord to allow the other ring to slip 
over the thumb, and the outer sleeve is drawn on without any difficulty. 

Court-plaster Case. — Take 12 inches of zYz inch satin ribbon, in any 
pretty shade, and fringe out each end till you have a two-inch fringe ; 
fold the ribbon ii the centre and crease. Take a package of court-plaster, 
remove the cover and tack one end of the bunch near the centre of the 
ribbon mside. Flatten the plaster down nicely, and near the lower end 
of it put a band of narrow ribbon to hold it in place. On the outside on 
the front piece of the ribbon, in etching silk outline the sentence, "I heal 
all wounds but those of love," or, " I stick to you when others cut you." 
Unless you have had some experience in making and arranging 
fancy letters, it will be a good idea to write and arrange the words as 
artistically as you can on a slip of paper the width of the ribbon used, 
before attempting to put it on the ribbon. 

An ornamental match-safe to suspend from the bottom of a hanging- 
lamp or chandelier can be made in this way. Take a small basket, four 
or five inches in diameter and two inches high, gild the outside, when 
perfectly dry line with .colored silk, put in full enough to shirr slightly at 
the top. Now take about 10 or 12 pieces of narrow ribbon, each 4 
inches long and of a different color, and fasten at equal distances around 
the top of the basket, firmly attaching ends between basket and lining. 
To the free end of one ribbon sew a little bell, to another a tiny tea-ket- 
tle, to a third a banjo, etc. These ornaments are small and inexpen- 
sive. Hang the basket with ribbons. Make one and see how pretty it is. 

Finger-bowl Doyleys. — For material choose that which is fine and 
sheer, with a good body of dressing in it for easy working and handling; 
the best quality of India lawn answers the purpose very well. See that 
the threads of the cloth are smooth, as unevenness makes it difficult to 
draw the threads. Get a quarter of a yard of lawn, even your edges by 
cutting by a drawn thread ; make the strip seven inches deep ; this 
strip will make five doyleys, "] ^T- Draw 6 or 7 threads far enough 
back from the edge to allow for a quarter of an inch hem, hem-stitch with 
very fine thread. Then place the pattern you are going to use underneath 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. . 67 



the doyley and draft the pattern onto the cloth with a fine pointed pen- 
cil, very lightly. Etch the outline of your pattern in 2 rows of etching 
close together, in wash silks, using 2 tints of the same color. The small 
designs on pages 86 and 87 are used for these doyleys, two or more being 
arranged in some uneven way. With some of the small designs the 
ground covered with darning is very effective, and is done after the design 
is worked. Nothing can be prettier for finger-bowls than these — or for a 
<Tlass of water. They are used with fine effect around the table at each 
plate, on which each individual may stand his or her glass of water. 
They make such a dainty bit of coloring for the table. 

Make an apron of black sateen, shirr it across the top and fasten 
with strings. Embroider across the bottom a vine of leaves and white 
daisies, or a vine of red berries and leaves. Do the daisies or berries in 
solid embroidery, and the leaves and stems in outline. This is pretty 
and durable. Work aprons are best made of material that can be washed, 
but are very pleasing if some motto is outlined in one corner, or irregu- 
larly across the bottom. For instance, a spider web in one corner, with 
the words, " She weaves a web of colors gay ;" arranged in some artistic 
way close to the web ; "A stitch in time saves nine ;" " Make hay while 
the sunshines;" " How doth the little busy bee improve each shining 
hour," are all appropriate for such aprons, and require very little time 
to do. 

Umbrella cases are made of heavy linen with outlined mottoes on 
them and make such a useful present. Some of the mottoes used are 
these: " A friend in need ;" "Wet or dry, a friend am I ;" "Neither a 
borrower nor a lender be;" " If clear the sky, here let me lie ;" "Rain, 
rain, go away ;" " Put me here when the sky is clear ;" " Take me with 
me." 

For an eyeglass cleaner cut four pieces of fine chamois skin into 
some fancy shape, size about three inches long, width in proportion. 
With heavy silk buttonhole the edges of two of these pieces, and on one 
of these outline with fine silk, " I will shine them for you." Lay the two 
plain pieces between the two buttonholed ones (the outlined one on top), 
and fasten together at the top with a little loop made of the heavy silk. 




Oroc3:i.eted. 

SUSPENDERS 



(e. m. w.) 



MATERIALS. 

1 1-3 ounces 
Brainerd <£• Armstrong''s 
Crochet Silk, and a No. 2 Cro- 
chet Hook. 



DIRECTIONS. 

1st row. — Chain 24. 

2cL row. — Turn, and count- 
ing back, do 3 d. c. in 4tli stitch of 
chain ; do 4 d. c. in 8th stitch, and 
continue to the end of chain, mak- 
ing 6 shells. 

3d row. — Turn, chain 4 ; 3 d. 
c. in space between first 2 of last 
shell in 2d row ; 4 d. c. between 
first 2 of 2d and remaining shells ; 
4th and following rows same as 3d. 

Make each suspender 27 inches 
long, and line with No. 9 ribbon. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



69 



Crocheted fan tidy. 

Materials. — 3 balls Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk, and a 
No. 2 star crochet hook. 




Chain of ro or 12 stitches. 

Do not join, but turn and make 5 rows of single bars in long crochet, 
25 bars in each row, looping between bars till 5 rows are made. Chain i 
between bars in 5th row, 4 rows of 2 bars, looping into shell and no stitch 
between. 4 rows of 3 bars, no stitch between, i row of 4 bars, no stitch 
between, i row of 2 bars with i stitch between, and thread over twice 
from here. 4 rows of 4 bars, no stitch between. 4 rows of 5 bars, no 
stitch between, i row of 6 bars, no stitch between, i row of 12 bars, 
no stitch between, and thread over 3 times. 

Fringe made in alternate spaces, and finish 3X inches deep. 

SILK SLIPPERS. 

pattern originated by miss e. m. wight. 




Materials.— I >^ ounces Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk, i 
pair No. 4 lamb's wool soles, a No. 2 steel hook, i yard of elastic cord 
and ribbon for bows. 



1o 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Chain 25. 

I St row. — Make i double crochet in 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, loth, 
nth and 12th stitches of chain ; 3 d. c. in 13th stitch, and i d. c. in each 
remaining stitch of chain. 

2d row. — Chain 3 ; id, c. in each d. c. of previous row, taking up 
the under loop of stitch each time. Widen each row by making 3 d. c. 
in middle stitch of preceding row. Continue until there are 24 rows. 

25th row. — Chain 3 ; do i d. c. in each stitch of last row until there 
are 24 d. c. 

26th row. — Chain 3, and continue as before until there are 78 rows. 
Join this to toe of slipper, and finish top with d. c, in which run elastic 
cord. On top of this make a row of shells. 



Lamp Shade. 

(e. m. w.) 




'''\J^' 



Materials. — i yard of lace, i ounce of crochet silk, 10 X"'"ch 
rings, and 40 ^-inch rings. 

Wheel. — Cover ^^^-inch ring for centre. 

Chain 14, turn, do 22 s. c. over chain and fasten to centre, turn ; s. c. 
in each of 22, turn, s. c. in first 5 of last row ; chain 5 ; s. c. in 5th of 
last row, and 4 following ; chain 5; s. c. in 9th, and 4 following; chain 
5, s. c. in 13th, and 4 following. Chain 5, s. c. in 17th and remaining 
stitches to centre. This makes i of the 6 spokes of wheel. Join end of 
each spoke to 2d picot of preceding spoke. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



71 



The lo wheels are sewed to plain edge of lace, and a ring is sewed 
to the top and i to the bottom of each wheel. The bottom ring holds 
fringe ; 20 rings crocheted together are fastened to top rings on wheels, 
and a cord of silk is run through these 20 rings to be used as a draw 



string. 



Crocheted Handkerchief Case. 

Materials. — i ounce Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk. No. 4 
steel hook, and crochet loosely. Two yards No. i ribbon for a draw 
string. 

Chain 230, join, 

1st row. — I double crochet 
in first stitch of chain, and one 
in second 2 chain, pass by 2 
stitches, I double crochet in 
next 2 stitches, repeat till chain 
is filled. 

2d row. — 7 double crochet 
in first shell of ist row, i single 
crochet in next shell. 

3d row. — Chain 6, catch 
with a single crochet in middle 
of shell. 

4th row. — Like ist. 

5th row. — Like 2d. 

6th row. — Like 3d. 

7th row. — Like ist. 

8th row. — Like 2d. 

9th row. — Like 3d. 
loth row. — Like ist. 

I shell of 2 double crochets, shell come directly over the shell 
of 7 double crochets, and the other shell of 2 double between the shells 
of 7 double. 

Repeat this 10 times, putting the shell between shell cf previous 
row. Finish with a large shell of 7 double crochets with picots. Cut a 
cardboard 6 inches square, cover with silk or satin, and sew the crocheted 
piece on. 




72 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



UMBRELLA COVER. 

Materials, one ounce and a half of Brainerd & 
Armstrong's crochet silk, a No. 2 Star crochet 
hook. 

Cover a black ring, one-half inch in diameter, 
with 52 s. c. stitches, then ch. 3 and make one d. c. 
in every s. c. of ring. 

2d row. Ch. 3 and make i d. c. with one ch. 
between in every other d. c. of first row. 

3d row. Ch. 3 ; I d. c. in first space ; ch. i ; 
2 d. c. in second space ; * ch. i ; i d. c. in next 
space ; ch. i ; 2 d. c. in next space ; repeat from 
star to the end of row. 

4th row. Ch. 3 ; i d. c. in top of i d. c; ch. i ; 
2 d. c. in centre of 2 d. c; * ch. i ; id. c. in top of 
I d. c; ch. I ; 2 d. c. in centre of 2 d. c; repeat 
from star to end of row. Repeat 4th row 39 times, 
then increase one stitch and crochet 16 rows; in- 
crease one stitch and crochet 20 rows ; increase 
one stitch and crochet to within 4 inches of the re- 
quired length. Then turn and crochet backwards 
and forwards, thus leaving an opening in one side. 
Finish top and each side of opening with a small 
scallop, draw a cord and tassels made of the silk 
through the top, and you have a pretty and useful 
article for either a lady or gentleman. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



73 



Illustrated Embroidery Stitches. 

iVERY lover of needlework will appreciate the pains and expense 
incurred to get explanations, drawings and engravings to illus- 
trate the following stitches used in embroidery. 

By reading carefully the directions, and observing the drawings 
opposite, any one may be able to understand and make them. 

Outline Stitch consists of a long stitch 
forward on the face of the material, and a very 
short stitch back on the under side. This is also 
called corditis; stitch, or stem stitch. When the 
needle is brought up through the preceding 
stitch, instead of be- 



OUTLINE STITCH, 
STITCH. 



OR STEM 




BRIER, FEATHER, OR CORAL 

STITCH. 



side it, the work be- 
comes split stitch. 



Chain Stitch 

is made by bringing 
the needle through a 
loop of the silk, each 
loop forming a link 
like a chain. 



CHAIN STITCH. 





Brief, feather, or coral stitch, of 

several varieties, is made by bringing the 
needle out over a loop of the silk, each loop 
forming a branch. 



74 



The Bkainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



ILLUSTRATED EMBROIDERY STITCHES. 

FRENCH KNOT. French knot is made by twisting the 

needle once or twice around the thread, passing 
the needle straight down through the material, 
and drawing: the knot tight. 




BuUion, tvound 
or Point (le Minute 
stitch, is formed by 
coiling thread tightly 
around the needle, 
drawing the needleand 
thread through the 
coil, laying the coil out 
for the desired length, 
then passing the needle down through the ma- 
terial, to hold the coil in place. 



BULLION, OR POINT DE 
MINUTE. 




SATIN STITCH. 




Satin stitch consists of regular long 
stitches, closely laid together to represent a 
smooth, raised, satin-like effect. 



QUEEN ANNE, OR DARNING. 



Queen Anne^ or iveaving stitch, is a k 

regular, fine darning. Darning, of various fc 

kinds, is now largely used in embroidery, \ 

^principally in backgrounds. ^ 




Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



75 



Illustrated embroidery stitches. 

KENSINGTON FILLING-IN. 



Kensington fl11inff-in stitch is an 




irregular kind of satin stitch. 



BIRD'S EYE. 



Bird's-eye is a sort of chain stitch, from 
a central point, the loop caught down by a short 
stitch. 





Bcfiding stitch is a loop or knot, formed 
over the principal thread. 



LAID STEM STITCH, OR 
OVERCAST. 



Laid stem stitch is similar to satin 
stitch, or overcast stitch, but is worked over an 
outline, giving it a raised effect. 




-J^ 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



ILLUSTRATED EM BROIDERY STITCHES. 

TWISTED. 




Twisted sfifcJi. — One thread is twisted 
around another, and the two held in place by in- 
visible stitches. 

BUTTONHOLE STITCH, OR 
SCALLOP STITCH. 



Siittonhole stitch, or scallop stitcJi, 

is that bordering stitch seen in the edges of 
ordinary flannel embroidery. 



LADDER STITCH, 




y\ 



Ladder stitch. — The outlines are first 
traced, the edges worked in buttonhole stitch, the 
rounds of the ladder in overcast, or over-seam 
stitch, and the material between the rounds of 
the ladder cut away. 



tTaniua stitch resembles a broad cross- 
stitch. 




\_ / 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



11 



ILLUSTRATED EMBROIDERY STITCHES. 

COUCHING. 




Couching consists in laying down one 
or more cords, and securing them by regular 
stitches. When one fine thread is used in place 
of a cord, the work is c^^Wcd /racing, or tracing- 
siitch. 

ITALIAN, OR HOLBEIN. 




Italian, or Ilolhein stitches, are per- ; : : : : £1 c'vZL 

pendicular, horizontal, or diagonal short : : ^ : ~j ■>s~'£-~- s^ 

stitches, suitable for canvas embroidery. ';::::."; Wsi k " 

POINT DE RUSSE. ! ! ! ! ! ! M~ Jjl 

■ : : : : _%-l , 

■.■.■.■.y\ cxai 

1,: : : : : SC^t-ttI^. 



Point Russe consists of any number or 
order of artistically disposed long stitches. 




Dot stitch is a mere point, also called seed stitch, used for light 
filling-in. It is made like an ordinary back stitch, except that the needle 
is not put back to the place from which it is drawn out, but an interval 
about the length of a stitch remains unworked. 

Plush stitch consists in couching pieces of silk upoij the material 
by one invisible stitch in the centre of each piece, and raising the ends up 
like the pile of plush or velvet, trimming the top smooth, if necessary. 



78 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



New Stitches in Embroidery. 




NUMBER of new stitches have, recently made their appearance 
in art embroidery. They are not, strictly speaking, fic^a, but 
are, in reality, old ones revived. Their adaptation, however, 
is new. Among the stitches newly adapted are the following : 
Gobelin stitch is one copied from old 
tapestries. It is a filling stitch but it differs 
from Kensington filling in being strictly reg- 
ular instead of irregular. It is worked some- 
what like satin or laid stitch, but it need not 
necessarily be so close — it is rather a system 
than a stitch and is not used for thin leaves 
and stems where satin stitch proper would 
be allowable. Gobelin stitch takes the form 
of long straight lines — whether these lines 
are perpendicular, diagonal or horizontal, all 
used in the same pattern must be parallel to 
each other, so far as possible. The completed 
work often shows a series of stripes or blocks 
of exactly the same width, so far as the pattern 
will allow. Gobelin stitch is used to fill large 
leaves, arabesques and backgrounds in con- 
ventional patterns. 

ISMiT STITCH is one borrowed from Tur- 
kish embroideries. It is used to fill long 
leaves and petals and is generally seen in con- 
ventional roses. It is a broad cat stitch, adap- 
ted to the shape of the petal. It somewhat 
resembles Janina, but is looser, not giving the 
effect of a vein down the middle as Janina 
does. To work Ismit stitch, begin at the tip 
of the petal and work from you. iSMiT stitch. 




GOBELIN STITCH. 




Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



79 



Bulgarian stitch is a system 
borrowed from the Oriental embroid- 
eries which are executed with the 
finest silks. It may be described as 
an artistic combination of back stitch 
and outline, or even outline alone. 
The stitches, of course, are not of the 
same length, but adapt themselves to 
the curves of the pattern. Bulgarian 
differs from ordinary outline in that it 
gives the effect of satin stitch or Ken- Bulgarian stitch, 

sington filling, and it differs from these in that it always proceeds along 
the length of the pattern, never diagonally nor crosswise. 




Darning, of the kind commonly 
known as " running," is now largely 
used in decorative needlework. It is 
now the practice to outline a spray of 
flowers with one pale tint, and let the 
foundation-material itself constitute 
the filling. The background is then 
made by running in threads of bright 
color. The darning itself is simple 
enough, but it may be made as effect- 
DARNiNG. ive as one chooses. The stitches may 

be of regular or irregular lengths — they may form regular rows and pat- 
terns, or be as fantastically disposed as desired. One color may be used 
or half a dozen. Tapestry effects may be copied, and, in some cases, 
water, sky or grasses suggested. The straight lines of Gobelin filling 
stitch, described above, may be imitated in darning. If it is desired to 
use running stitches in the pattern and not in the background, the hori- 
zontal lines may appear only on the outline, giving the effect of what is 
generally known as half-solid Kensington. 




8o 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Half-solid Kensington. As will be 
seen by the illustration, Half-solid Kensing- 
ton is done in the regular satin or filling 
stitch. If a similar effect is to be brought 
out with running stitches, of course all the 
lines will be either horizontal or perpendicu- 
lar, to correspond with the threads of the 
material. One color, or at most a few, is all 
that can be employed — the proper colors 
must come to the surface in the proper 
places, the greater part being kept under- 
neath. If desired a different color may be 
run in for a background. 




HALF-SOLID KENSINGTON. 




BRICK COUCHING. 



Brick couching is derived from 
old ecclesiastical embroideries. It dif- 
fers from ordinary couching in that the 
threads are sewed down so as to form 
a regular pattern like brick-work. It 
may be varied by taking two or more 
threads at a time, or by placing several 
crossing threads in one group. Brick 
couching is particularly suitable for 
rope-silk embroidery. Gold cord was 
the"* material originally used. Brick 

couching is not the same as brick stitch, of which an example is here 

given. 

Brick stitch is in reality a 
system of running or darning. 
First run a row of stitches of the 
same length, with a space of the 
same length between each two 
stitches. Then run another row 
in the same line, so that the stitches 
will come in the spaces left vacant. 
Make a number of rows in the 
same way, keeping all the rows the 
same distance apart. These con- brick stitch. 

stitute the horizontal lines of the brick-work. Now run in the perpendic- 




Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



8i 



ular lines, seeing that they alternate properly. One perpendicular always 
runs from the middle of one brick to the space between the two above it. 
Of course, in running the horizontal lines, care must be taken to have 
the stitches alternate, the space between two 
coming opposite the middle of another. Brick 
stitch is suitable for filling large leaves in con- 
ventional designs. Rope silk may be used 
for the purpose, so may silk cord. 

Point de Bruxelles. "What some call 
brick, basket or box stitch is in reality an old 
point-lace stitch — Point de Bruxelles, or Brus- 
sels Point. It is simply a loose buttonhole 
stitch. The loops may be drawn into various 
shapes as desired. Point de Bruxelles is not 
the only lace stitch now introduced into art 
needlework, as will be seen from the follow- 

POINT DE BRUXELLES. 




Point de Feston. This will be easily recognized by those who are 
familiar with antique lace, or as it should be called, Guipure d'Art. This 

kind of lace is made on a coarse net- 
ting composed of squares, upon which 
are worked the lace stitches. 

Point de Feston is a triangular 
mass worked across the corner of a 
square. It consists of a series of loops 
around the foundation thread, the net- 
ting being turned from side to side in 
working, so as to form a woven leaf 
POINT DE FESTON. somewhat as in Ismit stitch. Begin in 

the corner of the square, throw the thread/r^w you towards the left, pass 
the needle tinder the perpendicular thread and up again between the 
floating thread and the corner ; draw close. Then turn the work side- 
wise ; do the same over the horizontal thread. Repeat alternately. 

The netting upon which Guipure d' Art is made is generally called 
filet. To make such a netting with the needle constitutes the lace stitch 
known as Point de Filet. Backgrounds, leaves, etc., are now some- 
times filled with a needlework imitation of Point de Filet, as seen in 
illustration. Upon this is then executed the Point de Feston. A regu- 
lar, close darning or weaving of the kind now generally called Queen 




^2 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Anne is like the lace stitch known as Point de Toile — only in this but 
one thread is used. 

Besides pcint-lace stitches, Crochet Stitches are often introduced 
into embroidery. A series of single crochet stitches very readily imitate 
close buttonhole stitch. Sometimes these are worked over brass rings 
or stout cords, and then fastened to a pattern like applique figures. Petals 
are frequently worked separately in double crochet, and then applied. A 
simple row of picots, loops or chains sometimes constitutes a very effect- 
ive edging. 



Cat stitch. With this issue, we pre- 
sent our readers with a better illustration of 
old-fashioned cat stitch than before. 

Border stitch. Also with a variety 
thereof known as border stitch. In cat 
stitch, work from you ; in border stitch, to- 
ward you. Both of these stitches are some- 
times called 
Herring-bone. 



Herring- 
bone. Another 
kind of Herring- 
bone is made in 
much the same 
way as Brier, 
Coral or Feather 
Stitch, which only 
differ a little in 
the number of 
branches and the 
We give a variety on 




BORDER STITCH. 



slant of the needle, 
page 83. 




HERRING-BONE. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



83 




Single brier stitch, which may be 
known by its regular slant. Otherwise it is 
not very dififerent from loose buttonhole 
stitch or Point de Bruxelles. 



SINGLE BRIER STITCH. 



Double Chain. This may be recom- 
mended as the most elegant edging for ap- 
plique figures. Work two rows of plain 
chain stitch, then take a third thread and lace 
the two rows together by their inner edges. 





DOUBLE CHAIN. 



Persian stitch resembles Cat, Janina 
or Ismit, but differs from all of these in that 
three threads are carried by the needle at 
once, and the crossings overlap each other, 
the needle always coming up at the edge in 
the opening between two stitches previously 
taken. When finished a row of Persian em- 
broidery looks like a band of braid. 



PERSIAN stitch. 



8+ 



The Braineri) & Armstrong Co.'s 



Roman stitch is a mode of filling a leaf, 
and at the same time forming a vein down 
the centre. The stitches are like laid or 
satin stitch, but they are caught down in the 
centre as in couching. Begin at the tip of 
the leaf on the left side, lay the thread 
across to the right, put the needle down, 
bring it up in the middle of the leaf, between 
yourself and the laid thread ; put the needle 
down again, from you and over the laid 
thread ; bring it up again beside the point at ^^^^^ stitch. 

which it first came up at the beginning and 

proceed as before. 

Leviathan stitch. This is one of the 
old tapestry filling stitches. It is really a 
double cross stitch. When made much 
larger, it constitutes Star stitch. 





LEVIATHAN STITCH. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 85 



Proper Shades in Embroidery. 

^O aid ladies in the selection of proper colors of silk to be used in 
\^j) embroidery, we have prepared the following list of popular 
flowers, with the appropriate shades for each, the numbers given 
referring to our color-card : 

Golden-rod, 503, 505, 507, 508. Trumpet-flower, 539, 540, 541, 509, 

Daisy, 505, 508, 614, 656. 510, 706. 

Daisy (leaves), 550, 551, 555, 556. Coxcomb, 578, 579, 580. 

Wild Rose (light), 704, 572, S7~y2, Stems for branches, 593, 594, 595, 

573. 573X- 596. 

Wild Rose (dark), 573>^, 574, 574/'2, Stems for flowers, 725, 726, 727. 

575. Mulleins, 718, 719, 720, 722. 

Pansy (light), 511, 511/2, 513, 513. Cat-tail, 595, 596, 529. 

Pansy (dark), 513, 514, 515, 516. Apple-blossoms, 704, 572, 574. 

Violet (light), 516, 650, 674. Carnation, 704, 536, 576, 579. 

Violet (dark), 674, 653, 654, 655. Clematis, 614, 738. 

Marigold, 505, 506, 507. Heliotrope, 511, 650, 674. 

We are now issuing in book-form a small color-card, showing 
samples of 260 shades of embroidery silk, with the number attached to 
each shade, so that any lady can order from any storekeeper the exact 
colors required, thus enabling her to economize by selecting the shades 
best adapted to the work. This we will mail to any address on receipt 
of 10 cents in postage stamps, although the card itself cost us more than 
twice as much. If, however, it leads the public to order our silks, we 
shall feel fully repaid for the outlay. 



On pages 86 and 87 we present to you some small designs suitable 
for all overwork, doyleys, tidies, bureau and sideboard scarfs, etc., and op 
page 88 a couple of designs to be used in church work. 



86 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



87 




The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 





OUR NEW FAST COLOR 

(Xl^sh pupse T«-list, 



IS A BEAUTIFUL ARTICLE 

FOR KNITTING OR 

CROCHETING 

]V[o9ey purses, 



and particularly desirable for all Em- 
broidery and Fancy Work, where shape r. i n oi 
and firmness are required . Sent on receipt of 50 Cents -Postal Note or stamps. 




WORK DONE WITH OUR 

WASH PURSE TWIST 

WILL RETAIN ITS SHAPE. 




HALF OUNCE SPOOLS-PRICE 50 
CENTS PER SPOOL. 

(See cut.) 

Made in all desirable colors and 
black. See that you get the ivhite 
spool — there are many imitation.s. 
Oui Purse Twist is remarkably 
smooth, lustrous and makes beautiful 
purses, bags, etc. Our Purse Twist 
will wash without loss of color. 



Sample of what can be done 
with our Purse Twist. 

This is a very pretty design and 
Is not too difficult to make. 

One color of silk may be used, 
era judicious combination of two 
or more shadeswill producea rich 
effect. 

For knitting purses see the rules 
in our book, "Art Needlework, ' 
described on another page. 



DOUBLE PURSE. 



The Brainerd & Armstrong: Co. 



(29) 



Testinaonials on 

Waste Embroidery Silk. 

It is no exaggeration to say we have THOUSANDS of testimonials in favorof this 
Silk. The following, lately received, i\ill suffice to show how ladies regard it. 



Mount Pleasant, Pa. 
I have now used several ounces of your waste embroidery silk, and am so well 
pleased with it that I have given your address to a dozen or more ladies. 

Trinity, Tex. 
Seeing a package of your waste embroidery silk, a lady friend had, I was so well 
pleased that I sent for two packages, which I used and was delighted with. 

BiTOokville, Ind. 
Having used six ounces of your waste embroidery silk, I can recommend it to any 
body as a lirst-class article. 

Onslow, la. 
The silk which you sent was received, and suited better than any other brand of 
embroidery that I have ever used. 

Winchester, Va. 
I have ordered several boxes of your waste embroidery, and also sent you several 
customers ; we were all very much pleased with it, and liked it better than any we had 
ever seen. 

Clinton, Ky. 
I am so much pleased with your waste embroidery that I cannot content myself 
with any other. Have told all my lady friends about it, and think you will get several 
orders soon. If they use it once, I am sure they will never use any other brand 

La Porte, Ind. 
The two ounces of your embroidery silk mailed me a few days ago have been 
received, and I deem it due you to say that the silk is all or more than'you claim for it. 

Waterloo, Ind. 
I write again to order some more of your waste embroidery silk ; I have already 
ordered eight ounces and it has given universal satisfaction. 

Jesup, la. 
Received your waste embroidery silk some time ago and was very much pleased 
with both the quantity and quality of it. 

Cannelton, Pa. 
I was so well pleased with the embroidery silk that I received from you, that 1 
now write for another ounce. 

McAdensville, N. C. 
Was very much pleased with the ounce of embroidery you sent me ; find it better 
Ibr crazy patchwork than other silks I had been previously "using. 

Memphis, Tenn. 
Having used several packages of your waste embroidery silk, I find it answers for 
crazy quilts better than the regular skeins. 

Mayfield, O. 
I have used a package of your embroidery silk and it is really remarkable ; the 
quality and variety of colors for such an extremely low price. 

Detroit, Mich. 
Your waste embroidery received ; was very much pleased with it ; containing all 
bright colors, just what I wanted. 

Brownsburg, Ind. 
Your floss was received some time ago, and gave great satisfaction, both to myself 
and my lady friends who have tried it. 

(90J 



One Dollar s Worth for 40 Gents. 

40 C^e9t5 u/ill -^'' 

Buy Oi^e 




Keit. 



Equivalent to One Dollar's 
Worth of Skeins. 

IT CONSISTS OF Factory Ends, Odd Lengths and Assorted Colors, and is sold at 
less than half the price of regular Skein Embroidery. 

IT IS PUT UP One Ounce in a Box, all ready for mail. 

IT IS SOLD 40 cts. a Box (i ounce), sent post-paid on receipt of price. 

A CLUB ORDER for ten ounces, with ^4.00 remittance, will entitle you to one ounce 
extra without charge. 

NOTICE.— What we cannot do. 

We cannot assort any particular shades, 

We cannot assort any particular sizes. 

We cannot sell fractional parts of an ounce. 



The Why and Wherefore. 

Some people cannot understand how we can sell this Waste Embroidery at such a low 
figure. We will therefore explain : 

Waste Embroidery is the short pieces from the factory. The pieces are from 3 to 10 
yards long. Our hands are instructed to lay these pieces one side to be sold as " Waste." 

It is elegant for Applique work, Crazy Quilts and all kinds of Fancy Work requiring 
various colors . 

Not being regular marketable goods it must be sold at a loss. 

Of course we only have a little of it, and sometimes run entirely out. 

Throwing these short pieces one side leaves our regular goods free from knots and imper- 
fections, makes them very popular, in great demand, and we think this alone would pay us, 
even if we didn't get a penny for this " Waste." 

If you cannot get it from your storekeeper, send us 40 cts. in postal note, stamps, or 
money order. 

THE BRAINERD &, ARMSTRONG CO., 

625 Broadway, 621 Market Street, 120 Kingston Street, 5 Hanover Street, 

NEW YORK. PHILADELPHIA. BOSTON. BALTIMORE. 



NOTE : — The finer sizes used for hand-sewing we call Waste Sewing Silk, and sell it 
30 ets. per ounce. Put up in the same size boxes as the Embroidery. 

(9i> 



Etnbt^oidei^y Silk 
On Quills. 



The greatest improvement yet made in Embroidery Silk is our invention of winding one 
skein (long skein) on a paper quill. Retails at one cent (ten cents per dozen). Wherever in 
troduced it supersedes the skeins. 




ladies are Deli^l^ted 

UUitl^ it. Cut Showing Quill Embroidery. 

NO MORE BOTHER WITH UNDOING SKEINS AND WINDING ON PAPER. 

NO TANGLING, NO FRAYING, NO FADING. 

NO TROUBLE FOR MERCHANTS TO KEEP STOCK IN ORDER. 

P90tl?(^r Importa9t ($09$id(^ratio9. 

The competition on Skein Silk, and the attempt to close it out, is bringing the price 
down, down', down, compelling manufacturers to put up small skeins and make the thread finer 
and finer. In less than one year, skeins will be so deteriorated in size, quantity and 
quality, that it will be unsatisf ictory. 

OUR EMBROIDERY ON QUILLS WILL BE SUSTAINED. 
FULL LENGTH SKEIN, THREE YARDS, FULL SIZE THREAD. 
AND THE CHOICEST QUALITY OF STOCK. 



ps\[ for tl^e Qijill Embroidery Sill^. 

See if it is i^ot just as U/e Say. 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co 



p. S. — Shaded Embroidery Silk is put up on the patent quills also, and sells at the 
same price. 

(9-) 



F/IST COLOR W 

I IH li IH IM Hi ^W 



/Un iILK/ 



Made in tlie following 
lines: 



HEAVY EMBROIDERY OR 

ENGLISH TWISTED, 
ROPE SILK, 

ETCHING OR OUTLINE, 
FILO AND 

ROMAN FLOSS. 



THIS CUT REPRESENTS A 
14 OZ. BUNCH OF 



rainerd & .Sniistronof's Past ©olor 




We are the first silk manufacturers in America who have succeeded in dyeing 
absolutely fast colors in silks for Embroidering, and we have fitted up at great ex- 
pense, in order to dye by our exclusive processes, nearly every shade, and tlius give 
the public the benefit of our discoveries. 

These Fast Color Silks are made of the finest stock, have a fine lustre, and are 
warranted to stand exposure to light and washing in warm water with pure soap 
without fading. Every skein has our guarantee tag attached. 

Ask your Storekeeper for 

Brainerd & Armstrongr's 

Fast Color Wash Silks, 

and if unable to procure it, please notify us by mail. 

THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO. 

(93) 



How to Measure Spool Silk. 




IT WILL PA V YOU TO TRY IT. 

Take two large shawl pins, or medium-sized nails, set them slanting, just a yard apart, 
and drive into a board or old table until they set firm. 

Tie the thread to one pin and wind around and around as shown in the above cut. 

If a 50 or I03 yard spool of our Silk can be found that runs two yards less than marked, 
we will present an extra spool. 

After measuring the Silk, you can easily wind it back upon the spool. If any accident 
should tangle the Silk, send it to us, even if not our goods, and we will cheerfully give you a new 
spool for it. 

NOTE. — Every manufacturer has a system and rule for putting up each brand of silk. 
For instance, in a given Brand all colors measure alike. All " B," " C," and "D" spooh 
measure alike. Therefore, when you measure a spool of " C," you may be reasonably sure that 
all " C " spools in that Brand will measure the same. 



Reasons why every Lady should measure ONE SPOOL at least of every Brand 
she proposes to patronize. 

1. It protects you from imposition. 

2. It protects and sustauis those who put up honest, full-length goods. 

3. It will drive short-length goods out of the market, when ladies know them and refuse 
tu accept them. ^_i^^^__>i^a_^ 

A Hint as to 7vhat is likely to measure less than One Hundred Yards. 

If Silk is cut short anywhere, it is almost certain to be on " D," "C," or " B " Black 
All cheap silks are either short lengih or improperly lettered, especially in the coarser sizes 
Measure spools marked No. 70, No. 60, etc., both in colors and black. Probably not one lady 
in a hundred is aware of the actual mpasurements of the above goods. 

NOTE. — Retailers depend largely upon the testimony of customers relative to the merits of 
different goods, and unless some preference is expressed, they naturally and wisely buy that 
which pays best. We are under many obligations to the ladies who have investigated the merits 
of different goods, and they will please accept our thanks for sustaining and calling for the Brain- 
erd and Armstrong Silk. 

The Brainerd & Armstrong Co. 

(94) 




Braiperd 9 |^rmstro9(5's 

ia taJ^^Knittii SIk 




PURE THREAD SILK FOR CROCHETING, KNITTING AND 
EMBROIDERY. 



This Brand of Knitting Silk is made from the long fibre of Reeled Cocoons, and 
is noted for brilliancy and lustre, making it especially adapted to Crocheting Fancy 
Work, Baby Caps, Sacks, and all articles of an ornamental character. 

For Embroidery and Liace the eflfect is fine 

FAST COLiORS.— By our new discovery in dyeing:, we make these 
colors faster tlian any Itnitting Sillc knovrn 

In stockings and mittens tliis silk will not stain the feet and hands 
as other makes do 

Most makes of silk stain the feet so as to be positively injurious to health, and it 
is only by our new and secret process of dyeing that we are able to avoid it. 
If you cannot get this silk from your storekeeper, please notify us by mail. 

THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO. 

(95) 



NEW NEW NEW 

Silk Faced Terry 

CUT IN SQUARES 

. . 25 X 25 for Cushions and Table Covers . . 

. . 30 X 30 for Table Covers . , 

. . 50 X 50 for Table Covers . . 

and 

. . 20 X 60 for Table and Bureau Scarfs . . 



-'^--tv 1 O^^fY 1 1 IN SIZES AS ABOVE. 



We make various patterns of the above goods in 
. ECRU, TERRA-COTTA, GOBELIN BLUE, . 
. . . WHITE, OLD ROSE, OLD GOLD. . . . 



THEY CAN BE BOUGHT EITHER PLAIN OR STAMPED READY FOR WORKING. 



Silk: Faced. Coi-^i^n^terpane, 

WHITE ONLY 

Four Patterns . . '. . . .72 in. wide. 



FOR SAMPLES, ADDRESS 

THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG COMPANY, 
i"hii^ai>f:i,i»hia, ne'w york, 

BOSXO?<i, BAI^XIIHORE. 

XORONTO, CAKABA, 

(96) 



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